A cozy little urban cocoon. Singapore walks continued.
Little India, Jalan Besar, Kampong Glam
(You can find some links to my previous Singapore “stories” here.)
I went to see physiotherapist near Noveena station. All done and equipped with a knowledge of some new knee exercises I decided to walk towards Jalan Besar area of Singapore. Formerly a swampland, then plantation, then industrial site, now it is boasting some fun cafes, bars and bakeries hidden between former or existing industrial buildings.
If you have been reading my blogs you would have noticed that I’m a big fan of laksa. One of “famous” laksa outlets happen to be near Noveena station. It is called “328 Katong Laksa”. So, I start my walking day here.
Katong laksa is a variation of laksa lemak, a laksa based on rich coconut gravy, originating from Katong area of Singapore (not far from East Coast Park). The noodles are cut into small pieces, so technically you can eat it with a spoon only. The shop has been in operation for over 45 years.
In Singapore everything is close. As long as you get accustomed to heat, wandering the city is fun. After laksa treat I head towards Kampong Jawa Road, then stroll leafy Lincoln Road, and finally Dorsett Road takes me to Farrell Park which is already Little India. Probably one hour walk or so from Noveena.
Glorious Mustafa Centre is ahead.
I remembered shopping for take-home souvenirs in Mustafa Center in 1989 when I worked in Singapore for a few months. At that time the center was located at the ground floor of Serangoon Plaza. The new location on Syed Alwi Road has been in place since 1995. Shopping no longer on my to do list, I dived into wandering Little India. I like this little square on Lembu Road.
The whole area is very colorful. I really feel at home surrounded by this Chinese Baroque (Sino-Portuguese) architecture.
Interesting sign below. Hope they are wrong.
More colors on Sam Leong Road 45. A few restaurants “live” in this building.
There is Al Mubin restaurant opposite Mustafa Center. It is one popular Singapore chain.
I felt like roti, but they only had prata. Why not?
Properly “prata’ed” I’m moving towards the Tyrwhitt Road. I walk first via Kitchener’s Road. Many streets in Singapore are covered. The Town Plan of 1822 (the ‘Jackson’ Plan) signed by sir Raffles did not just divide Singapore into the familiar zones of Dhoby Ghaut, Chinatown, Kampung Glam, etc. It also mandated the construction of Singapore’s first covered pedestrian walkways. I see also many similar covered walkways in Taipei, well, here it rains a lot as well.
On the way I’m also passing Hamilton Road and Arcadia hotel.
Somehow it reminds me one of my favourite hotels in Asia, Eastern and Oriental Hotel in Penang, Malaysia. Suddenly wanting to be in Penang. Does it happen to you? You are already in one place, but some other destination is knocking on the mental doors…
Memories and knocks aside, soon I’m passing a hardware store with wall tattoos.
Next I’m inside one of Jalan Besar cafes located on 150 Tyrwhitt Road. Not out of hunger - curiosity.
I browsed the shelves and menus, did not order anything, but appreciated the humor.
Where to next? Whenever I’m nearby I try to visit Kampong Glam area centered around Arab Street and Sultan Mosque. It is getting more and more touristy, but it is probably a nostalgic motivation since I used to stay around this area a lot.
From Jalan Besar it is only around 1 km to Sultan Mosque. In fact, Syed Alwi Road where Mustafa Center in located will take you straight to the area.
Interesting bistro. Guess, specializing on Sicilian pasta.
A hotel to stay if you lack self-confidence.
And now Rochor river.
Soon I’m near the ever-nonchalant Sultan Mosque.
Interestingly, Sir Raffles contributed $3000 to erect the first original building in 1819 (it was later rebuilt, fully complete in 1932 with the budget of $200,000).
Not far is now toxically “famous” Haji Lane. I remember in 2006, when Haji Lane was marketed as “the narrowest street in Singapore “, it had only a few bars, now it resembles a squeezed version of Bangkok’s Patpong.
I’m finishing the day at the local Ramadan fair. Rap, mosque, Singapore…
Little urban cocoon.
A lovely perspective of Singapore. Funnily enough, we booked the E&O Penang many years back but, due to renovation, it was closed so they put us up at the Lone Pine at Batu Ferringhi - always meant to go back but haven't done it yet. Did splash out and managed a stay at Raffles though.