Walking Hakodate. Part 1. Cape Tachimachi, Mount Hakodate, historical district, Hakodate Marina and Oomori Beach. June 2025.
I felt I would like it. And it was true!
My other Hokkaido diaries are here.
Part 2 of this post is here.
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Preamble.
The southernmost city of Hokkaido Prefecture, Japan, ranking number three in the prefecture (after Sapporo and Asahikawa), and a home to around 240,000 people, Hakodate City has a rich historical heritage and offers beautiful views from the namesake Mount Hakodate. Surrounded by the sea and geographically in the center of Kameda Peninsula separating Tsugaru Strait from Hakodate Bay the city is elegant, but simple, busy, but never in a rush, whilst feeding itself mostly from the plates of tourism and fishing.
From earlier readings, looking at the pictures and stories, I knew I would like Hakodate once I make it there one day. It did not happen for years, but finally I made up my mind in June 2025. I just decided to go. This was the beginning of my experimental trip, “travel on a whim”, I mentioned in my June monthly digest when I rolled from location to location deciding where to go next only at the previous stop after having enough of it.
By and large, I would split Hakodate into two large areas. One, I call “Old City”, in the proximity of Hakodate JR station includes the historic area with suburbs of Motomachi at the bottom of Mount Hakodate and Funami, then stretching further towards Omori beach. Here you can find the City Hall and the most of travel attractions - morning market, Kanemori Brick Warehouse, Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward and other historic buildings. The architectural landscape in this area is mostly low rise, the streets feel spacious and although traffic lights are everywhere, they are hardly necessary as there not so many cars.
The other part, further north, and centered around Goryokaku Tower, is more “city proper” and is full of restaurants, offices, banks, clinics and sleeping suburbs. Mentally I called it “New City”. Both are connected by frequent trams, another distinctive feature of Hakodate.
I preferred Old City due to its spacious feeling, a sleepier character plus the abundance of historic buildings with Mount Hakodate watching it all from the above.
I will roll out this diary based on a few walking routes I took around Hakodate forfeiting the “must see” sites which you can Google anyway if need be. With food and accommodation notes at the end.
Cape Tachimachi - Mount Hakodate - Historic District- Irifunecho - Hakodate Marina - Oomori Beach.
The rough map is above, and I had one of those great walking days bathing in a pleasantly cool June weather of Hakodate. If you look at the map, yes, it would be good to circumvent the whole peninsula, from the Cape to the Foreign Cemetery, but it is not possible.
The hotel I stayed was near the Oomori beach, so I started my walk early and headed straight to the water.
On the way passing Bar Bamboo I wondered if it was an “active bar”.
Closer to the Cape I came across a few identically looking constructions resembling alternative summer houses for rent or sale.
Next is one of the highlights of the walk - Penguinis Cafe.
I had a chat with Enami-san, the owner, over a cup of tea. She smiles proudly, “The cafe actually ranked number five on a popular Japanese hotel booking website, Jalan Net, for three consecutive years”.
Cape Tachimachi offers great views and a good escape from the city. I took it is also popular with locals.
From the Cape I recommend climbing Hakodate Mount, this route is much better than the one which starts near the ropeway. There is a map once you leave the Cape surroundings.
I pass Senjojiki open space and climb towards “Tactical control point”.
Great views! Now I understand why it is called the “tactical point”. You can observe any vessel approaching and prepare accordingly.
On the way plenty of giant cypress trees, brought here in 19th century. Some are 30 m tall.
The summit is not that far (the Mount is only around 330 m high) and offers more clear view of the city.
I descend to historic district near Motomachi Park. There are plenty of nice buildings here, but I singled out the Orthodox Church and Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward.
In fact, you can spend the whole day in Motomachi historical district, enjoying architecture, reading signposts about historical facts and simply relaxing.
Next, I am walking towards Funami Park, the odors of white clovers overwhelming here.
On the map I see what is called Maehama Beach. Curious, I am heading there through a wide paved road aptly named 20 Slopes’ Street. Indeed, there are slopes all the way, cutting vertically through the street up and down.
Funami District has a lot of flower shops.
Not sure why, may be because nearby is Hakodate Foreign Cemetery. The Cemetery started in 19th century when two Americal sailors were buried here. It reflects the city history as one of the pioneers of international trade, a port open to foreign ships. Deceased sailors from Commodore Perry’s fleet, French, British and Russian souls are sleeping here.
I am now at the suburb called Irifunecho and heading towards the sea. Nice spot on the way, a cafe which is closed, the fact I don’t mind, as it made a perfect resting and tea break spot.
Walked then through the village, sleepy and calm.
As I suspected, the “beach” was not really a beach, but a “coast”.
Need to check Japanese writing next time, as often Google Maps names “kaigan” (海岸) as a “beach” whereas it is often a “seashore” or “coast” instead. “Bi-chi” (ビーチ) term would give you a better hit if you were after a real beach. But on the other side, my definition of the beach is “a piece of land which allows to enter and exit the water for the purpose of swimming without injuries to lower proximities”. (:
Next I am walking back towards Irifunecho Fishing Port.
Nearby is the area of ship repair docks. Interesting spot on the way if you have time or can schedule to come later. Bar “Shiokara” serving cold Sapporo beer and local seafood snacks (spicy squid, for example), however closing at 4 pm.
On the beer note, back in “town” I pass Hakodate Craft Beer Brewery Ozigi located in a historic building.
I gave both places a miss, as my next and FINAL destination and purpose for the end of this long day is a refreshing swim.
Omoricho is the area where you can easily plunge into the water. Basically I returned where I started my walk in the morning. Not officially a beach, without facilities or changing rooms. But the access to the water is easy, it is not too rocky, and the water is clean and cool-fresh in June. I spent couple of hours here before returning to the hotel and calling it a day.
