Hong Kong hikes. Lai Nan Wan to Chai Wan via Dragon Back. Nov 2023
Open spaces help to open minds. (Me)
When I am finally dropping these pieces of memory called words onto my computer keyboard in February 2024, I am thinking again why I like hiking. One motivation which comes to mind is my attraction to the open spaces. I always liked to be outside without being claustrophobic (I could even see a few dreams inside MRI machine while doing bi-annual comprehensive health check-up last week). Although while in the Navy I hated a few days inside a submarine even the food was great. Now writing this with a bad knee I can’t properly walk, but at least I can sit on a balcony or a rooftop overlooking Fuji-san while it is sunny.
So, back to open spaces as a motivation for hiking, just the nature, air, birds, less or no people if possible. Touching the air with your stretched hand. Hiking is just changing the scenes of the open space. Your legs move you to the new scenes, you inhale them and appreciate living. Each hike is a new movie and you and the nature are the actors and the spectators at the same time.
The Dragon Back hike on Shek O Peninsula is very popular and can be crowded on the weekends, so it is best done during the weekday. I did the hike on Sunday and tried to deviate from the well recommended paths to avoid large groups of people.
Having bought couple of sandos, I boarded the Island MTR Line towards Shau Kei Wan station.
The area around the station was live with a morning market and vendors selling different snacks. This is what I call “Hong Kong Non-Central”, laid back, alien to the ritz rustic suburbs.
I wandered a bit, then went to the nearby bus stop to catch bus 9 heading towards the starting point of the hike (platform K). Most route guides recommend alighting at To Tei Wan bus stop, but I left the bus a bit earlier, at Lai Nan Wan. Watching from the bus window it felt like a good spot to start from plus I wanted to stay away from the “traditional” route, so I pressed the button.
There was an old man exercising in the park.
“Can I get through to the walking path from here” - “Sure, just go up and turn right”, he barked. I climb up along a dried stream.
Soon I am walking out in the open with the views of Stanley Bay right ahead.
This is MY kind of a walk!
So far, it is not a mainstream track, so I am enjoying one peaceful walk. Down on the left I soon see New Shek O village, probably the largest on Shek O Peninsula. At the end of the village connected to it by the footbridge is uninhabited Tai Tau Chau Island. One day want to wonder there as well.
I am now on the way to Big Wave Beach (Tai Long Wan, not to be confused with a group of beaches in Sai Kung having the same name).
The “traditional” route is like per the map below, but I am already out of the way since I have started earlier, but I guess directionally I am right.
I enjoy first a relatively easy climb. Really it looks like the actual “spine” of the Dragon from the hill.
Then moving down was a bit difficult (I turned right after the fork of two paths).
Soon I am marching through the Big Wave Beach village.
The beach is not big, but has a few kiosks, cafe and a rental spot for the equipment. It is more “civilized” compared to Sai Wan Beach which I have mentioned in the previous HK post. But in any case, I never get tired of HK remote beaches, they are so secluded and clean.
From here I follow the sign towards Point Collinson.
Big Wave Beach is now behind. I wave a goodbye.
I am surrounded by the endless open space and magnificent views. The air touch is pleasant and welcoming. “Hong Kong is probably the best place for hiking”, I murmur to myself. “And eating”, adds my stomach. I am sure, there are better places, but at the moment I am in love from the tenth or so sight.
I make a tea break on a rock facing Tung Lun Chau. This large island is mostly uninhabited, but many people come here for rock climbing or camping. On the left there are Ninepin islands (they resemble pins in the bowling game, hence the name).
If I follow the road all the way I can reach the Pottinger Peak.
But I am a bit tired already, so I have decided to turn right towards Collinson Road which will take me to “civilization”.
Ahead is Tseung Kwan O, one of the new towns built recently on the reclaimed land. Actually, in the morning I was thinking to walk around Tseung Kwan O after the hike, but I am too tired now.
Walking down, more buildings and the sounds of cars - “civilization”. Few chin ups will not hurt.
Another 30 minutes take me from Siu Sai Wan Promenade towards Chai Wan station.
I take a train towards the hotel. Here near the footbridge, I buy a can of Goose Island IPA and watch the movement under me. It is the best bar in the world for me now.
The beer is well deserved after 23 km walk.
Oh, and the dinner. I had a delicious tender chicken soup with crushed cucumbers heavily infused with Marylin Monroe theme of the diner.
FOOD and HOTEL
As usual at the end of my mini-series (this is the 3rd post on HK hiking in 2023, there will be 2024, I hope as I am going there in April again, knee permitting) a few tributes to the places where I sleep and eat.
In my last year April post about Lamma hike I lamented about staying in the busiest part of Hong Kong, Nathan Road near Tsim Sha Tsui. So, in November I was wiser returning to Wan Chai Novotel hotel where I used to stay before.
The hotel has a small gym, pool and sauna.
Rooms are cozy, some with a bay view (room 1219, 1619).
Wan Chai area is good for wandering also. Johnston and Hennessy Roads have a lot of energy around them.
Lee Tung Avenue (perpendicular to Johnston Road) is one small attraction to drop by, for example.
And food. I can’t finish without mentioning about some new dishes and bite places I have discovered. There is a little dim sum place not far from the hotel which I like a lot. It is on Hennessy Road and is called Dragon King Dimsum. Highly recommend.
Below are few dishes from Dragonking and other Wan Chai eateries.
In the morning, if I feel like breakfast, I love my congee. Below is century egg congee with pork and bok choy, HK style milk tea.
And finally, if you are near the Piers after 5 pm and you like you coldie, please visit this “pub”, again out in the open. I have mentioned the Beer Point in my earlier post, but good will only gain from the repetition.
Another great hiking account - I believe the Dragon's Back hike falls into the best ten world hikes according to National Geographic.
They say I have ostheoarthritis now, because “you probably have used your knees twice as a normal human being “. But our predecessors never drived, although they lived short. Guess it is now between me and my joints . We will sort it out. I can’t live in a sofa!