Hong Kong impressions. Lamma Island hike. April 2023
"You can leave Hong Kong, but it will never leave you", Nury Vittachi, "Hong Kong: the City of Dreams"
In April and May I had many trips: mostly for business, combined with a few bits of pleasure inhaling new impressions. Hong Kong, Macau, Taipei, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Singapore…
I made quite a few notes to diarize later, so I am starting from Hong Kong. Geography tip just in case. Hong Kong as a special administrative region of “greater China” is comprised of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and New Territories (which also include the so-called Outlying Islands).
HONG KONG.POST-PANDEMIC.
When I think of Hong Kong (HK) my mind wanders through my favorite places and dishes: hikes along Sai Kung Peninsula and Cheung Chau Island, wandering through Kowloon street markets, delicious HK style milk tea and roasted goose at Yue Kee restaurant, many…
Glad to be back finally after my last visit in October 2018. Before the trip I read that HK has been losing its population: from 2020 over 200,000 people left the country. Chaotic handling of pandemic, civil unrests, new security law imposed by Beijing, uncertainty, many different reasons.
My impressions. What I did not like was only one thing (of course, good for economy): the streets were full of tourists, mostly from mainland China.
Nathan Road: elbow to elbow…
My fault: decided to stay at Holiday Inn, Golden Mile. And this is right in the “crowdiabolical” epicenter of the Golden Mile, another name of the area surrounding Nathan Road - the main street in Kowloon area.
But I had my reasons: I had to do many trips by Hong Kong MTR to see customers, and hotel was very close to Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station on a convenient Tsuen Wan Line.
Now to good impressions. Reaction of some people to the crowded streets was fabulous, I need to learn.
Coffee culture stepped up a lot. “Long black decaf with extra shot”, - no blink to my request. In Japan you would mostly get surprised faces before diving into “what is that”.
I frequented French-born chain Maison Kayser but found even better coffees in a smaller cafes.
K11 shopping center food court near hotel, another bonus.
Great laksa there (felt like something SE Asian). Yes, with chicken. And yes, with HK style milk tea which is an institution by itself.
I used to stay a lot before at Yao Ma Tei area in Kowloon. Went there to wander one night. Area near Temple Street market still live and busy with great outdoor eating atmosphere.
And more people with “whatever” attitude.
The harbor is certainly still a stunner as seen from Star Ferry, just try to find a quiet corner.
The construction of promenade from Central Piers to Wan Chai and beyond has been completed. It is a nice stroll or run up to Wan Chai now, but some skateboarder told me that I can walk straight through to Causeway Bay. Will try next time and will avoid hotels on Kowloon side, instead staying in Hong Kong or Sai Kung or at my favorite Golden Coast hotel.
In any case this busy city prompted me to repeat one of my favorite hikes on Lamma Island. Simply to escape the crowds and enjoy quietness.
LAMMA ISLAND. YUNG SHUE WAN TO SOK KWU WAN VIA TUNG O VILLAGE AND MOUNT TEI TONG.
25 minutes from Central Pier 4 by ferry. Best done on a cloudy weekday. Arrived to Yung Shue Wan (can also take ferry to Sok Kwu Wan - opposite, eastern side of the island).
Planned my route over the map.
And here we go. Yung Shue Wan. Yung Shue - banyan tree (plenty here), Wan - bay. Banyan Tree Bay village.
Roads are narrow, hence the size of the garbage “trucks”.
Many expats live here. Commuting by ferry just 30 minutes to the business district is not that long. Can understand them. Hence the rents are high.
Translating one example, top left right (23K HKD for 700 sq feet). 3-bedroom apartment, 65 sq, meters is around USD 2900 per month. Hmm, for a similar size in Japan I am paying less than half of it, and I am also on a seaside.
Walking towards Concerto Inn hotel. Memories…
Stayed here in 2018 during civil unrests and held my meetings in a cafe on the Central Pier. Escaped to Mandarin Oriental after three nights: there were electricity problems on the island resulting in non-operational air con and bad sleep. Otherwise, place is rather pleasant. Facing Hung Shin Yeh beach, swimmable.
Going further. Basically, it is mostly one narrow road in the beginning with some sidewalks in the middle of the island. Below is “Look out pavilion”.
My favorite tea break bench
And then continue. Is not it nice?
Another 30 minutes or so and I am approaching Lo So Shing village.
Here it is. The village is around 300 years old.
Beach with the same name. Had a swim here a few times before, not this year though. It started to drizzle during my walk, and I don’t like umbrellas, so already wet enough.
Step by step, one-two-three. Ahead is Sok Kwu Wan settlement. Early residents were obviously fishermen, and due to the lack of fishing boats they used long ropes and large nets to direct fish into those nets. “Sok Kwu” - bring into the net, “Wan” - bay, as you already know. Everything has a meaning and long history here.
I walk through the restaurant street, buy milk tea and find a bench to have my egg salad baguette I bought in Hong Kong before boarding the ferry.
Yum!
After the break I start moving towards Mo Tat Bay on the eastern side of the island. Some funny restaurants on the way.
“Genuine Lamma Hilton Restaurant”… I tried to find “Faked” one but could not.
Mo Tat village is divided into two: old and new. Definitely not a very vibrant atmosphere in the old one.
Some space for ideas for handymen…
I proceed towards Yung Shue Ha village. Most people here have family name Chou, being offshoots to a various degrees to the founder Chou Kai-man. Guess only a few people live here now. The building with a blue roof is local restaurant. They were holding small party when I was passing by.
But what I liked here the most is the beach. It is called Shek Pai Wan beach. It is the largest beach on the island and quiet even during the weekends (a bit far for weekender high heelers to walk and not so easy for the bike). I spent some time here enjoying short swim and another tea from the thermos. My favorite beach in Hong Kong.
I was even looking for accommodation signs in case I want to stay here next trip, but nothing much, as there are only 3-4 buildings in the village.
I then proceeded to Tung O village. Read the sign: turtles are nesting nearby!
Same as Yung Shue Ha it is hardly populated.
I understand. Would be hard to live here: need powerful motorbike to drive to the larger village for shopping, typhoons, etc., but the charm of remoteness has stayed with me.
Now the final stretch: I will do a short climb to Shan Tei Tong, the highest peak on the island of 353 m. English name is Mount Stenhouse. It is probably named after Humphrey Fleming Senhouse, but suffered a misspelling over time. He was a naval commander of British forces during the Battle of Canton in 1841. Interestingly, before he died, he wished to be interred in Macao because of uncertainty about Hong Kong's future as a British settlement. How right he was! And also interesting is that he cared where he sleeps after the death. I have not decided yet (:
Approaching Shan Tei Tong.
Nice and calm. Sat there for a while thinking nothing.
Satisfied I descend back to Sok Kwu Wan and take ferry to Central Piers.
Drizzle is getting stronger, but I don’t care. I am happily tired.
Next bit will be about Macau.
Yours in travel
IZ
So many placed to discover... I must do Asia once retired. Thank you Igor! A great account, and an amazing insight.