Japan. Hokkaido. Lake Toya. Part 2. The wombs of the nature.
From a volcano crater to the beach. A day of a "human ant".
Part 1 is here. Part 3 “Walking Muroran” is here.
The bus dropped me at the stop “Youth Hostel”. From here I will walk to Showa-Shinzan, a mount the formation of which took only two years (1944-1945) after the eruption of Mt. Usu. Mt. Usu (733 m high) is still an active volcano waking up every 20 to 30 years (the last eruption was in 2000, and no reason not to expect another soon).
Cool and pleasant morning, a few cars on the road, birds singing. Soon I see a silhouette of Showa-Shinzan.
And closer.
I buy a ropeway ticket and within a few minutes am standing on the top of Mount Usu. Now Showa-Shinzan no longer looks big, and I can see Lake Toya as well.
There is a short walking path on the opposite side offering the views of a crater. It is called Ginnuma crater and was formed during Usu eruption in 1977. I looked at it in awe with mixed feelings of admiration and insecurity. Humans are really ants allowed to move freely between the caprices of the nature. It feels especially strong in Japan with monthly earthquakes and typhoons. And we have no control over those caprices. Funka Bay of the North Pacific Ocean was a backdrop of this scene (“funka” means eruption in Japanese).
There is a walking path around the crater. To join it you will need to climb down around 600 steps (this can be a climbing route for those coming from the opposite, ocean side). I felt curious to step into the one of the nature’s wombs and started descending via those wooden steps purposefully erected for the walkers.
600 steps down and I am at the outer rim of the crater. Looking back, I can see a precise vertical drop of the staircase which I have just used. Thank you to those who built it!
Now I realize that I am inside active volcano area. A toilet has helmets hanging inside to confirm the fact.
And the volcanic smoke reinforces the message.
Watching this parade of the views I nodded mentally that I would have travelled to Lake Toya just for this view. The view of the nature at rest between moving and creating mountains…
So, I took a rest too watching this silent movie and trying to imagine what had happened here before and what will happen later.
Walking back, I met a runner who was coming from the foot of the mount when I was reading the signs. “How far is it to the bottom?” - “Around one hour if you walk”.
So, I decided to give it a go. Mostly going down, ropes on the steep areas, one hour and a bit sweaty.
I am a self-confessed train buff, so at the foot of the mount I waited for a train to pass on Muroran Line.
None appeared, so I proceeded inside Usu village. Cozy, calm, small, neat.
On the way passed a miniature building of Usu station on Muroran Line (only local trains stop here, not express). In a way reminded me a church.
Soon I am near Usu Beach. I liked it and actually came the next day and spent there a whole day doing some work meetings and reading.
There is a whole street of abandoned minshuku (guest houses) near the beach which probably had seen better days. I am not sure why they closed down. I liked the beach a lot. Probably a bit far from major municipalities. ?
After the beach staying closer to the ocean, I walked to Toya station. It is around 90 minutes in a slow pace. Some nice houses on the way facing the ocean.
Really only a few people on the narrow alleys. But I have seen a lot of crows. In Japan they are much bigger than in Europe or Australia, and these pests really outnumber the humans, damaging the crops and causing nuisance in the urban areas. Not much is being done. I think in Hokkaido the crow population is even larger than in Kanto (Central area of Japan). “Overcrow’ded”!
Recently I am evaluating cities and towns in Hokkaido with intention to create a summer base, living, say, June- September here, then moving back to the beaches of Kanagawa prefecture, my primary base in fall. If you know any good place, please suggest. People say Hakodate is a nice city. So, I will go one day to evaluate. Toya is a good place, there is a public gym and a supermarket, but probably a bit too small for my liking. Oh, I deviated again from the narrative, as usual.
Back to the walk. On the way to Toya station, I am passing Abuta fishing port, after which a small-town main road opens up.
I am always amazed with a variety of vending machines in Japan. When walking in Mie prefecture I came across a cheesecake machine. Here, in Toya, I found a frozen BBQ variety one. Lamb, chicken, beef. Makes sense it is located near the local butcher. I think it is a good idea, you are on the market for 24 hours!
And finally, a Sunset Beach with a sign “swimming not allowed”. Wonder why…
Time to get back “home”. My bus stop is near Toya JR station.
So, this is the end of a crater and beach day. My most enjoyable in the whole Lake Toya trip. A day of a “human ant’ as seen by the Nature.
… Normally when I walk I don’t pay attention to ants etc under my feet. These days if I can or paying enough attention I’m trying to walk a different path away from their busy routes. After all, we are also the ants from the nature’s perspective. And we don’t want to be stepped on.
Next week I am off to Seoul, stay tuned!