Japan. Tokyo escapes series.

Miyagi prefecture. Naruko onsen.

Yes, I like and hate Tokyo. All this “vibrancy” appeal fades away once you are in a usual work-eat-sleep-wake up- and work again routine.

In my line of work I have to visit different places in Japan, look into the eyes of distributors and see where we can do better and where we should not bother. So, Sendai, capital of Miyagi prefecture, was a place to go one day for a small expo. I did not know that following Monday was a public holiday, so based on a colleague advice, after we finished work on Saturday, I took a train to Naruko onsen (onsen=hot spring town). Actually in Miyagi prefecture, as I was told, there were few nice onsen places to visit: Sakunami, Akiu ( http://akiuonsenkumiai.com) and Naruko. However when in 2020 I went to Sakunami I regretted it: near the big road,noisy. Avoid. About Akiu I will make another post.

Anyway, with a short notice I did not have much time, so when I tried to find a room to stay. only one hotel came up which was Kameya hotel in Naruko onsen area. From Sendai I took fast train to Furukawa, then one man slow and somewhat antique train to Naruko Onsen station. And here I am in less than an hour!

8 pm, room 413 (4th floor), 6 floors in the building, windows can be open, breakfast included, iodine baths on the 6 and 1 st floors. No sauna and no cold pools. Well, not exactly how I like it, but this is how traditional rural Japanese onsen works.

For other accommodation I recommend Naruko Fuga hotel. Kids not allowed, young couples atmosphere, but sound insulation is poor, so call hotel direct and ask for the room on the 7th top floor (751 is corner room). This probably will be the best room.

Now back to Naruko. Due to our magic Internet library you can find a lot of facts.

http://en.naruko.gr.jp/history.html

Apparently this place has at least 1000 years history. As with other small onsen towns in Japan I have noticed many abandoned buildings, so please come and support those cosy and welcoming communities. I had small talks with many people: hotel owner, shop owner, passers by, lonely old fisherman … As everywhere, people in the backyard of any country are nice.

Photo upon arrival.

This is a station sign.

After the hotel baths which were very intense with iodine flavour I went to local izakaya (pub) to research where to go tomorrow. After a few beers and sake (some presented by beer sipping owner as a gift), complemented by discussions with other visitors,  I got my plan. I will walk part of the route taken by famous poet Basho in 17th century. He did it for inspiration (stuck in ideas?), but I just wanted a nice long flat walk. On the way I wondered if poets became poets because they had a lot of free time. Never heard of a factory or office worker becoming a famous poet… But back to my story.

The path is called Hosomichi and is very long, but I only took a small portion of it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oku_no_Hosomichi

How to get there? Just one stop from Naruko Onsen station by the same nice local train there is a station called Nakayama Daira. When you exit this small station you need to walk left along the large highway around 15 minutes, then walk towards a shrine with distinctive red torii (gate).

You can also walk from Naruko Onsen, but since it was raining during last night, and the road there was slippery, I decided to walk less risky route.

Here is the starting point of the route.

Wak took around 2 hours, and there were no “Be careful of bears” signs.

I also met some funny 80 years old character who was carrying bags of herbs and told me to be careful.

After a walk I went to onsen recommended to me by a colleague from Sendai. It is called Higashi Taga no Yu.

Made friends with a dog, had a chat with an owner (8500 yen with breakfast and dinner if I come next time and choose to stay there) and walked to the river for a small picnic.

After that another hot bath in a different ryokan (costs you normally 500 yen or you can buy ticket to visit many)

After all those rich and interesting baths I found small park near the river without any people except for one old fisherman who was eager to chat. I bought some beers, brought to the bridge where he was fishing, and we had a nice talk.

The place below is around 2 hours from Tokyo. Imagine if Japanese companies got more flexible and allow their people work from home. I would definitely make this park my office.

For alternative walks you can also take taxi towards Naruko Gorge rest house, around 1500 yen from Naruko Onsen station, and from there follow “Olle route”, which takes you back to Naruko Onsen station, around 2 hours.

KATANUMA

Next morning I went to Katanuma. Katanuma is a lake which was formed around 1100 years ago as a result of volcanic eruption. Even now sulfure hydrogen gas and steam are springing from the bottom of the lake all the time. The PH of the water is 1.4, and its acidity is among the strongest in Japan.

Because of this high acidity there is no life in the water. But can Russians survive in this water? I have asked locals if it is possible to swim. They said yes. I found a nice place and did a few strokes, when I opened my eyes the water stung, so I kept eyes closed and did a few more strokes. Anyway not a place to do your laps. There is also nice little café nearby where you can have food, also there are boats to rent.

The best way to get to this caldera lake from Naruko onsen town is to walk straight up from post office or start at the steps near Naruko Fuga hotel. It is much shorter way (around 45 minutes), then 1 hour plus which information bureau will suggest you. They suggest to walk along driving route because they never walk, they drive.

And to finish the day I suggest to visit nice family restaurant Takahashitei (near post office), peaceful atmosphere, clean and delicious.

So, finally, I love Naruko, there are many more places to explore, and I will come to Miyagi again!