Manazuru. Peninsula, cape and town.
Dating places is possible.
I wonder if it is possible to have a crush not on a person, but on a place. Today I am feeling like that exploring Manazuru. Another thought is, “it is finally my plan B”. The place I will be willing to relocate should things go wrong with my current living arrangements in Japan (Shimoda is also on the list). And I’m serious.
The picture above is of Mitsuishi -The Three Rocks. Mitsuishi is probably the most sought for attraction on a tiny Manazuru peninsula located between Odawara and Atami in Kanagawa prefecture. The rocks were formed as a result of geological transformations and are considered sacred. The rope decorating the rocks weighs around one ton, it is 37 m long and also sacred.
Manazuru town is home to only around 7000 residents, there is a fishing port, feeding the nearby fish market, a few hotels and eateries, a couple of convenience stores, one bottle shop, and I was not able to locate supermarket, but it has to be one somewhere. There is also a swimming beach. So, my plan B if necessary, might work, I just need to find a sauna and a supermarket. Hospital needs, if any, can be covered by the facilities in the nearby Odawara city. In any case I need to come again for a more detailed reconnaissance. But back to today’s route.
Fishing port and market can be reached within 20 minutes’ walk from Manazuru train station (from Zushi where I live now to Manazuru is around one hour by train).
Just go straight after exiting the small station building along the main road.
Few small restaurants near the fish market have outdoor seatings.
To add info to food places, I bet this BBQ joint (also near the fish market) is booming during the weekends.
On a sightseeing side you might also want to visit the nearby Kibune Shrine. It is impressive.
Apart from the town my plan for today is also to explore local short forest trails and then walk along the water where possible at the end of the Cape. Capes always attract me; they are like border posts of the solid soil before the invisible gates of the Ocean.
The map looks big, but it is only 5 km from the station towards the walkable end of Manazuru Cape. There is also a detailed map at the information center near the train station.
What I liked about this town is that since it is located on the peninsula, the water views are nearly everywhere. The western side with a port and train station is lower, and the eastern is much higher. Both sides are connected by the intertwining labyrinths of the narrow streets or staircases.
A very walker friendly town. Plenty of pedestrian paths even on the narrow roads. You can see the Cape ahead.
Once you reach the Cape there are a few trails in the forest full of oaks and Japanese black pines. Those are mighty trees some as old as 350 years.
This skin definitely looks 350 years old to me. Don’t you agree? I compared with my skin; it looks a little bit better…
Some paths are steep, but they are not very long, you will always hit the roundabout road with some infrequent (even on Sunday) traffic.
Actually, I have not met a soul while exploring the forest trails. People are mostly driving towards the Mitsuishi, then a few pictures, “oh” and “ah”, short stroll and drive back.
After the forest I have descended to have a rest opposite the Three Rocks. After seeing the rocks make sure not to climb back but turn right to find a path leading to Bambaura beach. The path is called Shiosai Promenade. You can see Mitsuishi on the left.
Good place for the rest and chat with the fishermen.
Feeling that I would want to come again I have checked some accommodation options.
Pension Shiosai is 10 minutes walk uphill from the fish market area. Some rooms are facing the sea. Since it is on a hill, nice views are guaranteed, and they also have hot outdoor bath.
Below is the view from the parking lot near the pension.
There is another pension near Shiosai.
And this pleasant looking house might be worth checking as well! The sign says "Wine Lover’s Factory”.
There is also Irifune ryokan near the fishing port, but it looked a bit stale to me.
When walking back towards the station on the eastern, higher side of the town I also spotted this hotel. “Tsuru Yoshikawa”.
It is getting dark, whole day in Manazuru having walked 18 km. I need to take train home. But crush or not crush, I feel like I am coming again. For at least couple of days. There are some more trails to explore, and because it feels so peaceful here. In Manazuru.
Love the little gem articles that you write and this piece is no exception. Thanks!
Wish I could "date places" in Japan... Your writing style is unique. Your walking style is the best. Your appreciation of Japan is much appreciated. Thank you for sharing with those of us who are on the other side of the planet (with at least part of the heart left in Japan)..