Mie Prefecture. Part 2. Watakano Island. April 2024.
"Pleasure" island before. Now one of the quietest places I ever seen in Japan.
Part 1 is here. Part 3 is here.
Watakano Island.
I like small islands, so continuing my Mie encounters, on the map I found Watakano Island which is not far from Ugata station. Train from Kashikojima where I stayed to Ugata was nearly empty, even at 11 am in the morning, and the ride was short, 5 minutes.
Upon arrival I took bus from Ugata towards Watakano Tosenba (Watakano Ferry) stop. The bus ride was also short, 20 minutes.
On the way I read about Watakano. Actually, it has been known before as Prostitution Island where first sailors, then salarymen used to come and seek pleasure here well until around 2016 (with prime “era” being in 70-80’s) although prostitution was officially banned in 1958. With current population of about 180 people, this peaceful island is reshaping its image drawing students for field trips involving pearls extraction etc.
In earlier days, between the 1600s to mid 1800s the island was often used as a rough seas shelter for ships sailing from Osaka to Edo (old name of Tokyo).
There is non-schedule regular boat delivering passengers and cargos to and back. It is probably only 500 m to the island from the mainland.
Upon arrival I turned right and strolled along the water.
In front of me Matoya Bay and Anorisaki Lighthouse (from where I am going to hike during my next visit to Mie).
On the way there is an entrance to Watakano Enchi (Watakano Garden), which leads to a short inland walking path, but I gave it a miss as it involved some climb, and my knee was still complaining.
At the end of the promenade there is a Buddha statue “hotokeishi” (仏石) deformed greatly by the wind and the waves.
There is a beautiful story around it about a woman who fell in love with a sailor and knowing a huge storm coming tied herself to the anchor to stop ship going to sees. She died but saved her beloved. It is said the statue was erected to commemorate her sacrifice.
Next, I walked back towards the ferry site and then up the narrow streets into the middle of the island.
Many abandoned buildings.
After a short climb I reach spacious community park which also serves as evacuation area in case of tsunami.
Again, not a soul. Actually, during my three hours on the island I met only three people.
It was so quiet and peaceful, so I did not want to leave immediately and took my time sitting on a bench reading and listening to the island.
Reluctantly…Ferry back, then bus through the narrow streets to the station.
Soon I am at Kashikojima station. Full of rhododendrons. If I am right…
It struck me that today I saw more flowers and birds, than people. I don’t mind.
(To be continued with “Toba town”).
Looks tranquil, if not desolate. A great escape!