My soul is in Soul. Part 2. Naksan park to Insadong. March 2023
“The past is a candle at great distance: too close to let you quit, too far to comfort you.”, Amy Bloom
PART 1 IS HERE
Prescript. I dont know what is opposite to PS (postscript), so I have invented PreS. Finishing these Korean notes on the flight from Taipei, back home to Japan. Feels good. What makes home a home and house a house, but not home? Something to dwell on. “Cabin crew, prepare for landing”…
I like to wander around Seoul. There are purely urban walks and there are mountain hikes starting right in the heart of the city. Just pick one route, take metro and start.
Last week I had some free time while on business in Korea and decided to revisit the Seoul City Wall followed by the walk to Insadong area where I used to stay often in 2005-2010. The Seoul City Wall is actually a combination of different walls (stone, wood) built to defend the city against invaders in the 14th century. Many parts of the Wall were destroyed during the years, then restored partially. The perimeter is around 19 km which makes it an interesting one-day hiking target. There is a map along the route, but I have also picked up a good printed version in the Museum of the Wall which is near the Dongdaemun part of the hike.
To experience one of the picturesque parts of the walk (near Hyehwamun Gate) take the train to Hansung University Station (line 4). Get out of the station at exit 4 and walk straight, turn left at the first turn and climb the stairs leading to the Seoul City Wall. In 5 minutes, you will be on the track.
You can turn left or right. As I wanted to walk through Dongdaemun area towards Insadong, I turned left (next time will explore the right side). This area is also called Naksan Park, as it is home to Naksan mountain which you will reach within 20 minutes or so. Below is Seoul view from Naksan mountain.
These stones have seen a lot…
Colourful cafes and shops on the way.
I liked carpet-like feeling of coverings laid in some parts of the walk.
Soon I am approaching Dongdaemun area, one of Seoul’s 25 districts. Home to DDM (Dongdaemun market), rustic, busy for many, definitely not a “cutie” land.
I spot porridge shop and have octopus kimchi porridge.
Loved it. Then street vendor offers me some kind of rice cake. Why not…
Nearby I see the sign pointing towards Gwanjang market. Never been there, so decided to take a look.
What can I say: kingdom of food.
Admitting to myself again that Korean food (in Korea!) is still my preferred one, I cross the street towards Cheonggyechong Stream (I know, I am struggling to pronounce those names as well!), an 11 km long relaxing path running through downtown Seoul. Kind of a breath of fresh air amid concrete high risers, mini lungs…
I used to come here years ago, still same relaxing atmosphere: people strolling, chatting, laughing…
Signs everywhere, so it is easy to navigate.
I walk towards Jongno 3-ga station and climb up near Tapgol Park. Here is already Insadong area, a touristy place, but to me still holding some kind of sentimental value as I stayed many times in Insadong Crown hotel whilst coming to Korea on business at the beginning of my career as a sales manager for Asian region.
Crown Hotel is still here: unsurprisingly I felt butterflies in my stomach. I do get attached to the places…
Memories. Many places have changed, a lot of new buildings, same eateries still in place, but plenty of new and flashy, improvised fruit market gone; VPN connections via landline, soju with rice cakes inside booths covered by plastic to protect from the wind, hotel gym with rusty barbels, freezingly cold Januarys… I sit on the bench, relaxed: “Life is good”. Likely I will not come here again; this candle has burnt and there are many new places to see in Seoul, but something brought me here and I gave in to the urge. Rubbing shoulders with the past…