Shima onsen, Okushima and Shima Lakes, Gunma Prefecture, Japan
I have two doctors, my left leg and my right. - G.M. Trevelyan
I love the sea, so I live nearby. But it is still hot in September here in Japan. I want a small change in the environment, the excitement of buying the railway ticket and a snack, and then a gaze through the train window. Not sure if I like more the process of it or arriving to a new place and wandering around. Probably both, and equally.
So, I am now on the train to Gunma prefecture in Japan heading towards Shima Onsen. Wanted to do a mountain walk, but with a knee problem and the recent rains, the walks around small onsen town and nearby rivers and lakes will do. Shima is one of the top four onsen areas in Gunma prefecture, the others being Kusatsu, Ikaho and Minakami. I visited Ikaho and Minakami before, liked them and ignored Kusatsu as too “famous”. So, that leaves Shima. The meaning of Shima is “40,000”. The story goes that this is how many ailments can be treated if you bath here. With their geographical names Japanese like to overpromise, unlike in the real life. Another purpose of the trip was to see super blue waters of Okushima Lake and to ride Agatsuma Line.
To get to Shima onsen, I needed to take three trains to Nakanojo station, then 40 minutes bus. Shinkansen from Ueno station to Takasaki takes only around 45 minutes and the views are very urban. But once you change to Joetsu/Agatsuma line from Takasaki, especially after Shubukawa station which is the start of Agatsuma line, the paysage becomes postcardishly green and rural, while the carriage is nearly empty.
Small stations…
Agatsuma river as seen from the train window.
Finally, I am at Nakanojo (pop. 15,000). One small cozy town. Around are mostly mountains and forests, I am surely far away from the civilization and happy about this.
I took a bus from the stand #1 heading to Shima onsen. My destination is the final stop, but I alight at a place which drew my attention when gazing through the window.
This is Shima Seiryu no Yu bus stop area. Bus drove off from the main 353 road to get here, and anything out of the big road is my friend. Well, the name of this bus stop is long, but it is just the name of the ryokan. I thought that instead of riding by the bus all the way through to the hotel location, I would rather walk up the Shima River via the town to get the feeling of the place.
And I got it. It is just one narrow road with small inns on the way. Local travel office says on their website that there are 35 ryokans (inns) in the village. One is ahead. All places come to life during the weekends, and a very few have guests during the week.
Soon I reach what I think is the premium accommodation in the area, the Shima Grand Hotel.
Here is also the “central” town area with a few eateries (which are mostly open during the weekends or daytime only).
Small lights are up closer to 6 pm, nice feel…
I liked this historic building now occupied by ryokan Sekizenkan.
All in all, a pleasant sleepy town.
Took me probably around 40 minutes to walk through the entire town, and soon I arrive to my guest house Shintoji Lulud.
Modern room facing the woods.
Hotel offers dinner, breakfast and hot public baths, outdoor and indoor.
WALK TO OKUSHIMA LAKE
One of the purposes of my trip was to hike around Okushima Lake. The Lake is filled in with the water from the Shima River and is part of Shimagawa Dam. It is famous for its unusually blue azure waters sometimes changing to green cobalt depending on the day and the season.
The walking trail around the lake is only around 4 km, and it is not always close to the water, but I enjoyed it taking short breaks and drinking the views and the hot black tea.
There is a sidewalk to Shakunage waterfall at the northernmost part of the Lake.
Walk back to hotel took another hour.
On the way I visit another waterfall. Plenty of them here for sure.
SHIMA LAKE
The next day I decided to walk in the opposite direction towards the Shima Lake. It was pouring through the night, so in the morning the river looked excited.
The walk was back through the town I passed yesterday, and then along the main road.
On the way I encountered one of the local tourist spots, Shima Oketsu. I read the sign explanation. Strong fall of the water rotates the stones which in turn make potholes in the ground, some 3m deep. I could not see any, probably because of the overflow after the storm, but the air here felt so fresh, so I stayed for a while.
Continued walking and after around 40 minutes of so I turned left on to a smaller road.
Now it looks more like my ideal walking road.
Green, green.
Walking is like a meditation to me, you look left and right, listen to the birds, thoughts fly in and out, mind is at peace.
As a side note, during my rural walks in Japan when I see people working in the rice fields or plowing the land, they are mostly in their 60s or 70s. I wonder what will happen to Japanese agriculture, say, in 20 years? Young generation have skillful fingers for video games and Iphone apps, but not skillful hands to work the soil…
Here is the bridge leading to Shima Lake Dam. I looked at the watch, it took me 3.5 hours from the hotel to reach Shima Lake. Nice walk.
And the Shima Lake itself. It seems to be very popular with SUP enthusiasts and looks like many people flock here for their beginner classes, listening 10 minutes’ instructions, then donning life jackets and trying their luck.
On the way back I took the bus to Seiryu-no Yu ryokan, where I started my walk through Shima Onsen town yesterday. I wanted a hot bath and they welcome day time visitors for 500 yen (2 hours). The water was very hot, 43 degrees and the outdoor baths were facing the river. Relaxing hot bath, sound of the river, drops of the rain on my face. I liked this onsen better than my hotel one.
PRACTICALITIES
I try to avoid hotel food normally, but in the evening, there are very few places to eat in Shima Onsen village. One of them is Maya cafe. Beef stew, hamburger steaks and the other likes of the “Western” food. It is located opposite the Lulud guest house where I stayed.
I prefer another one, Japanese eatery Asunaro which is near the bus terminus and Grand Shima hotel.
They make nice ochazuke.
Both are open after 6 pm. There is also small convenience shop at the lower part of the village where you can buy food as well. And one burger shop which closes at 5 pm.
FOLLOW UPS
I decided to come to Gunma again to explore:
Agatsuma Line with its 18 stations
Onogami onsen and nearby Onogami village which is right on the river
Agatsuma Keikoku Onsen. Kawarayu Onsen and nearby Lake Yamba
Manza onsen
May be Mount Akagi
So scenic. Japan outside of cities as presented by you is really intriguing.
Thank you. I can’t have enough, but there is much more to see. Time value of life gradually becoming a priority…