Singapore diaries. Part 1. 2022

Start of the affair and suburbs to explore.

Jan 10, 2023

Part 2 is here and 3 here. Part 4 Food is here.

Year 1989. Democratic movement is on the rise in the Eastern Europe, Berlin Wall falls down. President Bush meets Gorbachev in Malta. I am lining up to buy rationed milk for my 2-year-old sun holding tight to special milk coupons (there were also coupons for limited amounts of meat, sugar, vodka, etc., you name it). At that time, I lived in Vladivostok, in the Far Eastern part of the USSR. But I am in good spirits: I am being sent to Singapore for a few months to work as an interpreter in Jurong shipyard. I have been abroad before during short Navy visits aboard the ships, plus nearly one year in Ethiopia in 1979, still young cadet, again working as interpreter for Soviet military advisors. But Singapore felt different, somewhat more civilized from what I read about the country. And it met my expectations: brightly lit Orchard Road, electronic goods’ centers (I brought back home much coveted for in the then USSR video cassette player/recorder which kind of moved me to a middle-class “Soviet citizen” by unspoken local standards), razzle dazzle of hawker centers and the taste of Tiger beer. This is how my “affair with Singapore” started.

From year 2005, already living in Sydney, when I enrolled myself in a job related to developing Asian markets for a global medical device company, I started to come to Singapore every year, sometimes a few times a year. What always attracted and surprised me there was the speed of the changes. Whereas there have been hardly any major developments in Sydney where I have lived 20 years, apart from Barangaroo project and launch of Light Rail, Singapore was constantly building and improving: Marina Bay Sands complex, rapid expansion of MRT lines, creating of outdoor oases like Green Corridor, using rooftops for recreational and green farming purposes, improving of roads and building highways… I often wondered what if the late LKY (Lee Kuang Yew), who served as Singapore prime minister from 1959 till 1990, but still had great influence well after that, and who propelled the state to the status of a developed country, could be hired by some countries to act a Country General Manager. I am sure those countries would do much better had he been given cart blanche to operate as he wished (if he would ever take the “job”). Fantasizing…

Until 2020 I was quite an active runner, so in my early Singapore visits in 2005 and later, I simply liked to explore the city (and many other destinations) on the run. Recently I simply walk and absorb new impressions, chatting to people and sampling food. Below are my notes on my favorite suburbs or simply interested places. In Part 2 I will talk more about food and urban getaways of Singapore.

Robertson Quay

I like it here, because you can stroll along the river, find eating spots with different cuisines and outdoor seating (Indonesia, Australia, Iran, etc.), Grand World shopping center with good supermarket and food court, also nearby is Zion Road hawker center.

Recently I am staying mostly in this area. Copthorne King Hotel (on Havelock Rd) offers rooms with balconies, there is a good gym, sauna and even outdoor lounge.

By the way, service in most Singapore hotels as well as cleaning standards are much ぉlower compared to Japan, so don’t expect much, just choose good location and room.

Robertson Quay also has strong international vibe, probably because many expats settle here. I feel myself in Sydney sometimes when ordering juice at a cafe I hear strong Aussie accents from I-did-my=morning run-clad females surrounded by the inevitable dogs or husbands with often a pram, sipping coffees and discussing their weekend plans in a voice volume of election campaigns.

Definitely visit Zion Road food court center, then walk along Alexandria canal.

If you walk long enough (probably one hour), you will reach Tanglin Road, turn right, it will take you to Orchard Road, kind of a local Ginza with high rise boutique department stores, posh bars and cafes and loud music from the speakers.

Tiong Bahru.

Tiong Bahru (sometimes called TB by Singaporeans who love their abbreviations) is one of my favorite suburbs, I discovered it first in 2016 when I stayed in Wangz hotel (now renamed D’Hotel Singapore) located in TB.

The suburb was built in 1930s on the place of former swamp and cemeteries. Many buildings are preserved, and this is what gives a unique atmosphere to the suburb: there are hardly any high risers here.

I love murals on the walls.

Here I like to have a drink and watch people passing by (now the place is called Prive Singapore).

Opposite is Tiong Bahru market with its hawker center.

I visited hawker center after 8 pm when it was about to close. Still few stalls were open.

I will have separate food chapter in this Singapore blog, but I want to mention nice place to have rice porridge in TB. It is called Ah Chiang’s Porridge. Highly recommend.

And since we have ventured into the food, another gem is House of Peranakan Food (more about Peranakan food later) with its fish head curry. Super! I normally sit at that outside table you see on the picture below (behind the grey car, it will leave soon, I told him off (:).

Many other great dishes.

JOO CHIAT.

Whereas I have frequented Tiong Bahru for many years, Joo Chiat is the discovery of the last year. Here you can find a beautiful Peranakan architecture and food, many chic cafes and pop-up shops, vegan eateries and craft beer bars, yoga, Muay Thai and boxing studios. Probably good place to live for expats.

By the way, what is Peranakan? Many years ago, when Chinese traders settled in Malacca Sultanate, they married local women, and the descendants of these marriages formed Peranakan ethnic group. 15th century was the rise of Malacca Sultanate with territories extending from modern South Thailand to the eastern coast of Sumatra. Hence, there is also strong Indonesian influence in Peranakan culture. Men were called baba, and women were known as nonya (Peranakan cuisine sometimes is also called nonya). Interesting fact is that main breadwinners in Peranakan families were women with grandmothers “serving” as the heads of households. Peranakans were also bilingual, speaking English as well as their dialect of Baba Malay, and embraced influences from various religions including Buddhism, Taoism, and Christianity.

The tour of Joo Chiat can be started from Eunos MRT station. Use exit C to reach Still Road. I recommend not to miss Holia Juice shop near the station. Huge variety of fresh juices! I wish Japan could have the same.

After walking Still street you will reach Joo Chiat Road on your left, from here you can explore the area “patrolling” the streets vertically and horizontally.

Beautiful architecture.

By the way, a lot of nice Vietnamese restaurants on Joo Chiat Road. If you walk straight on this road, eventually you will hit Koon Send Road. This is where most colorful Peranakan houses are. In the close distance, you can see that the external walls are decorated with Chinese calligraphic couplets of health and happiness. On the other hand, fine ceramic tiles were imported from France and Belgium, and European influence can also be seen in the design of the windows and pillars.

I also liked the gate in one of the houses.

I visited the area twice, but still feel I want to explore more, and want to come once at night. Add to your list if you are in Singapore. And, of course, there is a lot of info on the net where to eat and drink.

Kampong Glam/Haji Lane/Sultan Mosque

I love this area also. Stayed a few times. It was weird to walk near Sultan Mosque and have a beer nearby soon after 9/11 US attacks in 2001.

Kampong Glam (KG) used to be a Muslim Quarter before, now it is same as Singapore: potpourri of all cultures with expensive coffee shops, Mediterranean food restaurants, Indian roti, you name it.

When I was wandering around KG during my trip in July last year, I spotted a go-to-Malaysia taxi spot, had this itch to board and go for a day or two. Having checked entry requirements, noticed that they accept three vaccines only or PCR test - bugger it. Another day.

KG also houses Haji Lane, “the narrowest street in Singapore”. In 2015 it was not so bright, but still was considered “cool”.

But look at it now! Grey street tattoos became so colorful!

I like to wander here, pondering between 1$ roti or 10$ craft beer, choosing neither and ending up eating falafel roll…. If you want to stay nearby (20 min walk), I can recommend One Farrer Hotel with good gym and sauna, but windows cannot be opened, so I prefer my Copthorne King Hotel room with a balcony at Robertson Quay. In any case, come and see it: Kampong Glam is glamourous.

Tanjong Pagar

Here you can find glitzy restaurants and bars coexisting peacefully with the likes of Maxwell Road Food Center. Suburb also is known as “little Korea”: plenty of Korean restaurants here.

Again nice Peranakan buildings.

I like to exercise in this outdoor gym in Duxton Plain Park.

People here definitely have good sense of humor!

In short, come to exercise, eat and wander. Tanjong Pagar.

Long Bar/Raffles Hotel.

Definitely not s suburb, but Raffles Hotel is a national monument, a symbol of Singapore. I like to come here for a drink and see if colonial atmosphere is still there. Vanishing, but there. The hotel was founded in 1887 by Iranian-born Sarkies brothers of Armenian ethnicity. Sarkies hoteliers are known to have established a few luxury hotels in South East Asia.

Among them Eastern and Oriental hotel in Georgetown, Penang (Malaysia). It is more affordable compared to Raffles.

Another one is in Yangon, Strand Hotel. Just came here for a tea (in 2014).

Back to Singapore. Raffles Hotel currently operates two bars: The Writer’s bar and the Long Bar. The Writer’s Bar is nice, but is charging a minimum fee which I don’t like. So, we will talk a bit longer about the Long Bar.

Here is the entry to the home of Singapore Sling.