South and West Izu. June 2023. Part 3. Minami Izu area to Matsuzaki.
On the charming villages and towns. From wild and secluded to the “normal”.
Part 1 is here. Part 5 is here.
Part 2 is here. Part 6 is here.
Part 4 is here.
Sometimes you visit a town or a village and you feel that it is “yours”. Place where you “belong”, where you want to spend more time, may be even a few weeks until it becomes familiar to the extent of “let’s move further”. I felt like that in Dalat (Vietnam), Nong Khiau (Laos), Gibraltar, Malacca (Malaysia), Yamba in Australia and, of course, in many places in Japan.
Before my West Izu hike I read about Matsuzaki town and felt that it could be one such place. So, I am heading there today. I will talk about Matsuzaki in the next post.
Because of online work meeting, I left my cozy and secluded cabin after 10 am. Warmed up one left over rice cake, that will do for now. Birds still chirping in their own live meeting. Small drizzle. I am now on the prefectural route 136 towards Matsuzaki village.
Ahead I see Cape Hagachi (Hagachizaki). The area is known to be the largest habitat of monkeys in the eastern Japan. Around 300 monkeys live here.
It is quite a long detour to go there ( go left from 136, then back), around 2 hours total, so I decided to skip, as I am also not a big fan of our ancestor cousins.
50 minutes into the walk I am reaching cafe Tihal serving Nepalese curry. It is strange to see such a place in the middle of the rural Japan, but I am grateful, as it looks like there is no other food place for another 3 hours or so.
I park myself into the outside bench to gaze at the scenery and listen to the rain. As I don’t foresee any opportunity to eat again until the very evening, and my backpack has only one apple and one small package of nuts, I have ordered A LOT!
Nice place. Tanks full, I am hitting the road again.
Soon I am passing the southmost point of the Izu Peninsula entering into the West Izu. There is a sign in Japanese.
After around 30 minutes I am reaching Takatoriyama park.
Sign ahead inviting to Takatoriyama hiking trail. Not today.
Looks like I am already in the municipality of Matsuzaki. Loved the sign!
Another 30 minutes and there is a side road leading to Kumomi Bay. Although there is no much traffic, it is much more pleasant to walk there. Just keep an eye on your left while on 136, and you will be able to spot this little path.
Soon I am reaching two signs: one inviting to go back to Hagachizaki to monkeys, and another one to Sanpo Hodo (Sanpo Trail). The trail is connecting 3 villages facing Suruga Bay: Kumomi, Ichibu and Iwachi. They are all part of Matsuzaki township. The 5 km long trail was used by the locals to commute before the bus route was established in 1965. Guess previous generation was much more active than the modern one which is mostly using four wheels instead of two legs. Below is the map of Sanpo Trail.
Walk the entire route was my today’s plan ( 5 km only) , but when I arrived at the start of the hike, I have found it to be too slippery and muddy. Next time…
Instead I decided to walk towards Senganmon Rock. The rock is a product of submarine volcanoes and boasts one spectacular open gate formed by the waves.
For those into geology there is an interesting article here. And good images of Senganmon.
I could not descend due to the land slide in the area blocking the passage ( I saw the sign, but rightfully chose to ignore it as at least I could approach the rock view). In any case, I was able to exchange glances with the rock. And winked, but no wink back.
Back to the main road, and now towards Kumomi Beach.
Ancestors finally caught up with me.
No food guys!
Soon I am near Kumomi Beach. People say it is normally clear and blue water. Not in the rainy season I guess. But loved “ the crowds”!
Nearby there is a small onsen (hot sping) village. It gets busier only on weekends or public holidays, today I have not seen a soul.
It is 4 pm, I am craving for a hot bath and some food. At least I am in civilisation here: there is even a bus stop! Checked its infrequent schedule.
I have 30 minutes or so, so I climbed to the nearby Cape of Memories (Omoide Misaki). Great views. Really enjoyed having a break there .
Back to the bus stop. I am the only passenger, giving some purpose for the driver. Another wink.
In 15 minutes - Matsuzaki village.
I will explore it tomorrow. Now I just want a proper hotel instead of cabins and a good meal.
Lodged at Matsuzaki Itoen Hotel. Good simple chain. Made a mistake of booking a buffet dinner, edible, but not my cup of tea.
Hotels meals in Japan are normally good, but often it is too much food and expensive or like in Itoen case, it is cheap (around 20 USD eat and drink everything you want in 90 minutes), filling and hardly delicious.
Hot big public bath, no rotenburo (outside bath) or cold bath. But room is good and sunny after 5 pm. Room 945. 9th top floor. I always ask for a top floor to remove opportunity of any dancers upstairs, but can be dangerous in the earthquakish Japan.
Tomorrow morning I will walk Matsuzaki and meet my friend Nagai for a walk/ drive around, finishing at a relatively remote hot spring.
I’m done for today. Talk later.