South and West Izu. June 2023. Part 6, final. Dogashima to Koganezaki.
The woman who follows the crowd will usually go on further than the crowd. The woman who walks alone is likely to find herself in places no one has ever been before. — Albert Einstein. Guess, men same
I am slow. Wanted to finish Izu notes last month, but…
This week I am on the business trip to Thailand, so writing this in a car speeding to Hua Hin where I intend to rest a few days. Next week I will return to Bangkok for a few minor tasks then flying back home to Japan. Editing already in Hua Hin. Not a bad view from the “writing balcony”.
This is the final part of my hiking notes along the South and West Izu. The last leg I actually liked the most. Let’s dive in.
I have tried to make a map of the route, but Google thinks there are places which are unwalkable when they actually are. Below is the attempt, but in reality, the route is all closer to the water.
I left Hotel New Ginsui in Dogashima at around 9 am and now heading north along the main road 136. The plan is to walk towards Koganezaki Coast known for its beautiful sunsets and then to return to the same hotel in Dogashima by bus. I did not have to walk long on the main road before descending towards Futo Beach following the sign.
Here I come across a detailed map showing a few hikes along the West Izu. Today, according to the map, I am walking along what is called the Tomyogasaki course. Japan likes to organize things. Don’t mind at all.
Futo beach is a cozily peaceful one with a few fishermen chatting through their day.
Ahead is the start of the trail.
Approaching. But, hmm…
The sign says, “The path is closed because of the falling tree”. I try my luck, as many times while in Japan I have found out that signs are not conveying the correct information or simply exaggerate “the danger”. Which is the case with this fallen tree.
Relatively easy obstacle to overcome, and I am back on the trail enjoying the views.
After about 90 minutes I am approaching Tago village and port. Mental bond with the place straight away.
I wonder why it happens. Can be similar scene, and it does not impress you, but then the other hits 100%. Mood, Deja vu?
I have read that the village is famous for the picturesque sunset views. Think this is why I could see a sunset view deck on the main street.
Nice clean paved roads.
Sign near the supermarket says, “There is no food we don’t have”. Humor, uncharacteristic of the billboards in Japan, but truly there is anything you need for life in this small store. And fresh fish with a 20% discount.
Often when I wander somewhere and I like the place to the extent of getting slightly emotional, I tell myself, “It would be good to live here for a while”. Tago and nearby Otago beach and village is such a place.
From Tago one can walk another trail. It is 6 km long Imayama course. But I have decided to skip it and proceed further towards the Arari Coast. Saved the map for the next time. There is always a next time which often we never “make happen”…
Luckily, I don’t have to follow the main road as there are small local routes. No tunnels: relieved. Soon I am walking through the tiny Uragami village. Not a soul…
After another 90 minutes’ walk from Tago, I am near the Yokota fishing port.
This vending machine menu is unusual for Japan. Prices are good also.
I “order” one hot cup of matcha with milk and sit down on the concrete steps facing the port. Small drizzle, small waves, large port…Those are the best moments.
Few more km along the seashore and soon I can see the Arari Coast ahead.
From here it will be around one hour to Koganezaki. I am really enjoying the drizzle, the route, the “no people land” and the views. Sauna lovers know well about the “sauna high” feeling, same as me. Now it is the “hiking high” mode…
Approaching the Koganezaki coast.
“It looks like a flat golden plate”, wrote Yukio Mishima about Koganezaki Coast in his “The Frolic of the Beast” story of revenge. On a clear day when the sun lightens the coast, it does look red gold. Below is the image of the Horse Rock. The head of the horse for sure.
I walked down towards Koganezaki Beach also.
Don’t miss one cozy break place at the café near the observation point. Curry bun was delicious or maybe I was just hungry.
The rain is getting stronger. 15.30. Time to go back to hotel. Although I want to continue walking this day through. It was the best in the West Izu.
During these seven days I have walked around 114 km, have seen many beautiful places, got emotionally close to some, chatted with a few locals and simply had a good time roaming and discovering. Is not it life?
I think Izu is not yet done for me. Next time I am thinking to walk from Koganezaki to Toi town via Ugusu, and then probably from Toi to Osezaki. Just a sketch to keep in writing…
Yours in Travel
IZ