Tochigi prefecture Japan. Nikko again. Skiing (Feb) and April 2022 editions
Tranquillity is addictive
April 2022. World is in turmoil. Some countries are back to common sense, much to dismay of mask and vaccine producers, online resellers, etc. “Covid is to be treated as normal respiratory infection”. Did not we feel it already when all the craze started? OK, what is next?
Attention seekers of the global scale ranging from the young/plumpy dictators to the oldies version {“I am still a macho”}, yell at us through their actions.
“ Look at Me, I am dangerous”.
We know. It is like in the street if we try to scale down. We really need independent world police to prevent large borough hooligans to attack the small one under the pretext of defending their “bros” and stop young guys using ICBM sling guns. But, it could be ideal, is not it? World police ensuring that village chiefs (or country chiefs) keep sanity and look after happiness and prosperity of their own people. At least at the stage when they have enough in their pockets to make life a breeze up to their 3rd generation (if any). Dreams…
But we need to live. I am at Nikko today again. April 2, 2022. Rather Oku-Nikko, near the lake, elevation 1200 m. +1C here, Tokyo around +13C. Doc tells me I am having a bit of a work-related or other stress (they never know), and I need to change surroundings/atmosphere sometimes. As if I have not been doing it already all my life…
It has been my 3rd trip to the Nikko area this year. I am surprised how often. I want to diarize my trips in sequence, as recently I have been enjoying re-reading stories of my old trips and planning similar or even repeating the old ones. So, now about this year Nikko trips in Tochigi prefecture, Japan.
SKI EDITION (February 2022).
As I posted earlier, , the area is a good place for cross country skiing. So, on February 23, Wed there was a public holiday in Japan (Emperor’s birthday - thank you mate), then taking day off Tue Feb. 22 could make it two fulls days off! Yuko and I decided to go skiing together, as she could also take days off. Being already an experienced snow boarder (but 20 years ago!), Yuko wanted to try cross country skiing for the first time…
February 22, 2022.
After usual procedure at Astoria hotel ski renting place (accommodation I will describe later) we are off to the woods. Not many people. Snow is falling. Deers are staring.
I was surprised that Yuko could do it pretty well for her first time. May be previous snowboarding and current surfing helped the body balance.
We trained climbing and sharp turns, then got back to hotel Hatago Nagomi facing Chuzenji Lake.
I stayed in Hatago Nagomi in 2019. And booked for this ski trip again. They “upgraded” us to the room 406 with a hammock. Nice service, by the way. Room 405 is also good, the sun stays here the longest in winter.
The hotel has very sulphur rich outdoor bath. Small, but really comfy especially when gazing at the snow flakes landing in a hot water.
I have to mention that behind Hatago Nagomi there is an izakaya (Japanese pub) called Taro. The owner is the Instagram enthusiast, we met in 2019, and he welcomed us in. He took business over from his parents, so the place has a history of over 40 years.Admire him…(
February 23.
Another ski day. We decided to go to the mountain ski area called Hakone Yumoto (famous hot spring place as well). Yuko to remember her old snowboard skills. Me to try mountain skis for the first time. 20 minutes by bus from hotel. Until that day I did not know that mountain skis (they call it boards here, may be everywhere?) were different from cross country.
I started skiing at around 7 years old. My father bought two curved wooden boards, attached loop to secure footware and that was it. No mechanisms, no fancy shoes, nothing. Often I ran to my school using those skis. Sometimes we went to the hills with boys and sped down trying to control movement of the skis with our bodies. But those skis were not for that, and the hills were not that high. We used to build snow elevations at the bottom of the snowy hill to jump up and land without fall to impress the crowd. That experience stayed in the body.
Those mountain skis I was given were short, and there were also rigid high boots attached. I could squeeze my feet in, walking was awkward, but once I secured the lock and boards on the snow, I felt more confident. Next challenge was the lift. Never tried those mountain lifts for skiers. But made it. Then skiing down was surprisingly easy. Not like childhood wooden long boards: the ones I had were easy to control just by moving your hips. I enjoyed my first mountain ski down swinging left and right and controlling my speed, then repeating a few times.
Yuko enjoyed her snowboarding much longer.
I just felt too cold and resorted to waiting in a lodge after may be 40 minutes: it is not as warming up as a cross country running: slide down, move up in a lift, slide down again - it was chilly.
So, we both enjoyed our first experiences! But I wanted more some time later.
March 1. Diagnosed with cervical spondillitis (severe neck pain - too much computer work) I decided to come to cross country skiing again. Skiing was good and no crowds due to weekday. But I want to highlight baths at Shikisui hotel where I stayed this time.
REALLY open view. Rich and hot.
Room 213 Japanese style facing the forest. Ask for a corner room (this one is close) if you are there.
I think this hotel is best if you are after quality hot spring. You can also order bento for 2000 yen. Not bad at all (traditional multi course dinner will be around 8,000 or so). A bit away from Sunset pier (main lake area). Another accommodation option if Nagomi and Shikisui is fully booked is Lake Side Nikko. They normally have option of full pension only (breakfaast and dinner included). But since nothing much around this hotel it makes sense, although meals are too large. Ask for room 206 (top floor, corner room facing the lake).
And now to highlights of today. April 2, 2022. Arrived yesterday night to Nikko station after work. Buses to the lake already gone. So, I stayed in Nikko Station Hotel II (3 star). 4 th floor (totally 5), window can be opened, decent breakfast, 5300 JPY total. Not bad, quiet. Good sleep.
8 am I am on the bus to Chuzenji Lake again. Today’s plan is to walk around the lake 25 km. I walked to Ryuzu Falls after leaving my bag at the hotel (again Nagomi this time) and then tried to enter the path to Senjogahama to further circumvent the lake.
Alas, too much snow. So, I went back to Ryuzu Falls and repeated my December 2021 route, just opposite direction, to Yumoto onsen through Senjogahara Marshland. It was different. During 3 hours leisurely hike from Ryuzu Falls to Yumoto onsen I have seen may be around 6 people. Inside the forest I felt a bit tense, as there were bear signs. But it was the celebration of tranquillity: only the sounds of nature and magnificient views. Around 6 hours walk, 22 km.
Today I realized. Tranquillity can be addictive: once you are on the path, you will try to repeat the experience. But there are so many such places in this world…!
Yours in travel
IZ
