Tokyo urban strolls. Tsukiji to Monzen-Nakacho. July 2023.

"We are over 60 percent water by weight. We're just a big ball of... blob of water, with enough organic thickener added so we don't dribble away on the floor." - David Suzuki

I love water. As a kid, running barefoot when the rain starts. Growing up without central water system, I had to go up to the well to pump fresh water into the buckets, then carry it home on my shoulders. Then, after occasional morning exercise, pouring cold water on myself from the bucket. Nice memories…

When choosing a place to live, I give a preference to the seaside. If it is not available, I would go for the river. When I choose hotels, they have to be close to the river or the seaside. Bangkok, Taipei, Seoul, Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore, Shanghai, places in Laos, you name it, - I do always stay near the water. When hiking, I like to move along the seashore or the riverbanks. I don’t know why. Probably when you look at the water, it is just refreshing or maybe I like that it is always moving (except for the lakes). And I like movement. It is also a calming movement when you observe it. Then there are smells: rivers and lakes, sea lagoons - they all smell differently. Sometimes not so pleasant, depending on the location. Then there are sounds. I don’t like noise but can easily fall asleep listening to the waves. The sound of the rain, which is also water, is calming. Then there are water activities: swimming, snorkeling, SUPing, kayaking. All are enjoyable. Running in the rain feels great, as I mentioned.

These days living near the sea in Kanagawa prefecture, but sometimes travelling to Tokyo where I used to live for 3 years, I am always pleasantly surprised when I find nice river walks in this huge city. On these occasions I feel that I really should explore Tokyo more, as it is not only skyscrapers of Shinjuku, crowds of Shibuya, the “bohemian” feel of Koenji or Edo atmosphere in Kagurazaka. It is also The Rivers!

There are 107 rivers in Tokyo. The longest, Shinano, is over 360 km and connects Tokyo to Niigata. But I think the most beautiful riverbanks belong to Sumida River (Sumidagawa in Japanese). I also like Arakawa where I strolled for hours when I lived in Akabane area in Tokyo. Sakura alleys along Meguro River, cycling paths of Tama …

Yesterday I had doctor appointment in Tsukiji area. This is where the Tokyo wholesale fish market was located until 2018. After the appointment I have decided to stroll the area, obviously moving along the river.

Interestingly, Tsukiji outer market with shops, cafes and seafood restaurants is still very busy. Mostly I saw foreign tourists, but I did not stay long there.

From Tsukiji I walked towards Kachidoki Bridge. Nice view of Sumida River and promenades from the bridge.

After crossing the bridge, I have entered a small park facing a tiny harbor for the chartered vessels. Loved there. This area is called Tsukishima. It is a manmade island built in 1892 and later connected to the nearby Tsukuda Island. So, I’m already on a big island which Japan is, and then, segmenting it further, on a much smaller ones. Islands, water…

After a short rest I walk straight to the main road and turn left towards the so-called Monja Street. Monja is something close to a watery pizza. I am not a big fan, but occasionally enjoy it.

I have not been in Tsukishima for around 10 years. Like it that now cars are not allowed on the Monja Street.

Today I don’t have a plan where to go to. I’m just relying on serendipity. And it is a great feeling. Stepping aside from the post theme, one day I want to travel Japan and Asia without booking hotels etc. Jump on the train/bus, go, see the place, like - stay, don’t like - move. I think doable, but better to prepare a blanket and a small tent in my backpack.

So, where to go next? Akabane area where I lived along Arakawa River would be good. By the way, Sumida River is the offspring of Arakawa. But it is 4-5 hours, and now it is 4 pm. Odaiba area near the Rainbow bridge is another option - probably two hours. No, lazy today. I will just walk Tsukishima and Tsukuda areas today.

Monja street looks calm, it is still early. I believe it will be crowded close to 7 pm.

After Monja Street I turn left towards the river.

Is not it great?

Now I’m approaching Tsukuda area. Not many people know that some episodes of the movie Babel were shot here. I like this movie, recently very few coming out as intelligently rich as the Babel.

I turn right again from the river to catch a glimpse of Tsukuda Sumiyoushi shrine. But I was impressed more by another view. Tokyo, old and new: coexisting.

Sumida river promenade in Tsukuda area is very relaxing. You can see joggers, or housewives exchanging gossip, or dog runners. Or benches …

Can’t believe it is only 40 min walk to the glitzy Ginza Mitsukoshi department store.
I rest, listen, watch… And I even don’t want to leave. Have to.

The edge of the former Tsukuda Island is next highlight. Ahead is Skytree and Chuo (Central) bridge.

Central Bridge connects to Yaesu Road. If you turn left and cross the bridge, you can reach Tokyo station within 30 minutes following the Yaesu road. It is interesting how knowing directions and ignoring public transport, can make locations so easily identifiable and reachable.

Full water at the edge of Tsukuda. Ahead I can see Eitai bridge and Skytree again.

Where to next? I have options looking at this map.

OK, let’s go to Etchūjima area crossing the Aioi bridge.

Aioi bridge.

Actually, when you pass Aioi bridge, you will enter Koto Ward of Tokyo. Chuo (Central) ward will be behind. I liked small Nakanoshima park below with some eager fishermen.

Now I’m moving towards Monzen- Nakacho station. On the way I pass Kurofune Bridge along Oyokagawa River.

This small river feeds Sumidagawa (Sumida River).

I want to do another hike along small rivers of Koto Ward to Odaiba area. It will be 2 hours or so, but looking at the map, I might enjoy it.

Now I am near the Monzen-Nakacho station. Wow, I did not know it is such a big drinking spot. Many restaurants and bars. Well, beer is a distant cousin to the water. I don’t mind it…