Tokyo urban walks. Yoyogi Uehara to Yoyogi via Omotesando
Sentimental minds drive us where we were...
I now live in what can be described as a “posh countryside”“of Japan. I don’t think so myself, but whenever I say I live in Hayama, people reaction is ‘you are okanemochi (rich man)’. Sure, goyotei - emperor’s villa - is here, many expensive housings, Isshiki and Morito beaches, people do flock here a lot in summer (hence I’m trying to avoid summers in Japan). To add there are many wealthy and interesting people living in Hayama ranging from the descendants of the first overseas bankers to a retired Christie’s auctioneer who used to work many years in London (a Japanese national, we used to chat on the beach, but I don’t see him recently). But mostly this is the place for people who live here because they like the sea or just because this is how it happened for them. Regarding the “rich”, I’m paying the same rent in a “posh” Hayama for a 70 sqm apartment I paid when I lived in Akabane area of Tokyo in 23 sqm place.
So, sometimes as I have mentioned in the previous posts, I would like to leave my ocean suburb and go “to town” to witness big Tokyo changes.
Last week I had errands to do in a small suburb Yoyogi Uehara. Locals call it “Ueppara”.
It is a quiet place with a few interesting cafes and shops, main commercial area snaking along the Odakyu rain line.
I liked this place with pita and falafels nor far from the station.
OK, I have decided to walk along the neighboring suburbs passing through Yoyogi Park and the snobbish Omotesando shopping district finally ending at the newly opened Yoyogi Broadway dining complex. I recommend this walk which you can combine with a stroll through the Yoyogi Park. Within a walking distance there is also an impressive Meiji Jingu Gaien Park and a cozy, much smaller, Shinjuku Gyoen. So, it is plenty to see for the urban park lovers!
Following along the main street parallel to Odakyu Line I soon reach Yoyogi-Hachimangu area. The atmosphere here is more live and busier. Surely more cafes and restaurants. I liked the one below.
The atmosphere here is not purely Tokyo, it is more like a small European town or one of the Sydney trendy suburbs.
I wander around those little streets before hitting Inokashira Avenue which runs near the Yoyogi Park.
Last time I visited Yoyogi Park was probably around 2013. It looks very well-groomed now, may be even too much for my liking.
Old memories. During my work trips to Japan during 2005-2010 I used to stay in a small hotel belonging to the Teachers’ Association. It was in Yoyogi area, just opposite Shinjuku Gyoen (one green park near Sendagaya station). The place was a good find. After I have accepted the job in 2005, the company asked me to find a reasonably priced accommodation somewhere in the center of Tokyo to stay during upcoming frequent business trips from Sydney. So, one day I wandered near Shinjuku Gyoen and decided to find accommodation near this green oasis. I saw something which looked like a place to stay but without a hotel sign on the building. I walked in.
“I’m from Australia and planning to come to Japan frequently to meet my distributors. I work for a company helping people with disabilities.”
“Hmm, it is not really a hotel, as we mostly cater to the members of our Association staying for seminars and exams… But it is a quiet season now, if you want to book, please call this number”.
And I was set for a few years. Spacious room, window opens to the park, morning runs in or around Shinjuku Gyoen, evening short walks towards Yoyogi station for ramen, gyoza and beers or sushi (those were my staples of the standard business trip menu). Room cost was around 9000 JPY including the breakfast. I was looking forward to every stay!
Unfortunately, the place closed around 2010. This is as close a picture near the place which I could find. I tried too hard to smile I reckon.
Back to reality now.
Following the main road dividing two parts of Yoyogi Park I turned right onto Keiyaki Namiki street to walk towards the famous Cat Street, a young shoppers’ paradise.
I welcomed the sign of tarako (cod fish roe) spaghetti restaurant as I like tarako in any form and mixing it with pasta makes it a nice twist.
Afterwards I walked through Omotesando shopping area towards Yoyogi station. Omotesando was packed with tourists. Definitely Yoyogi did not attract so many tourists 10 years ago, but guess it is good for the economy.
And then final destination, Broadway Diner. I read about it online, and was imagining a huge shopping center, but it looked like a large food court tucked in a small land pocket near Yoyogi station.
Following my rule to eat outside I grabbed a seat on the deck and enjoyed a few beers.
So, Tokyo is interesting and changing a lot. I felt a bit homesick for my 5 years or so non-home accommodation near Shinjuku Gyoen. This probably was the force pushing me subconsciously to walk along my old “neighborhood”. Minds may be sentimental, whereas the owners of the mind often pretend otherwise stating the reasons which are not true…
I have just ordered by the same author Adventures out Of Tokyo, as Tokyo edition is 30,000 JPY ! Will search for a cheaper version
Thanks Ben. Will check, as I feel Tokyo has a lot more to offer than I think I know . Currently wandering Seoul comparing river walks here with Tokyo Sumida promenades.