Walking Shiobara. Tochigi Prefecture. Japan. June 2024. Part 2. Final.
Myounji Temple, hotels with no guests and hot springs with no water.
(Continued from Part 1).
After Green Village my route is to Shio-no Yu onsen. A bit of a forest walk.
There are four ryokans here, the oldest being Myogaya Honkan Ryokan claiming its birth as far back as to 1674. I wanted to book there, but rooms were not available. Probably, for the better, as it is a bit far from the main routes for a walker. But curious. May be next time.
More on a posh and a modern side is ryokan Rengetsu. Some rooms have baths on a balcony facing Shiobara Valley.
From Shio-no Yu I am walking back to the center of Shiobara village. Soon more buildings appear, and I can see another suspension bridge. It is called Yamayuri-no Tsuribashi.
Below and along the bridge I have spotted a line of sad looking buildings. “More orphans…”, I told myself. I moved closer. Seikotoro Ryokan definitely has seen better days, but now the building is abandoned.
I have then spotted a few similar looking buildings near the bridge. All the area around was strikingly quiet as if asking for some company or for a noise of the movement. I accepted the silent invitation and sat for a while near the river having a snack.
Talking about camps. When I moved further in the direction of my hotel, I came across a huge rock.
Here some 380 years ago an advanced guard of Tokugawa Ieyasu army made a camp (“noshuku” in Japanese), hence the name of the rock, Nodate.
My next destination is Myounji Temple. It is also called Peony Temple as each May peony festival is held here. The temple was founded in 1187 by Myoun Zenni, the sister of Taira no Shigemori, one of the nobles in Taira (Heike) samurai clan.
There is a large cemetery behind the temple.
Peaceful. I walk up the steps under the torii.
And found myself in an alley of bodhisattvas (goddesses of mercy). One hundred of them are set up in a particular order which makes it a very mesmerizing view.
I am not much into temples, but Myounji somehow impressed me with its tranquil dignity. I spent some time around seeing nobody and looking for nothing.
I should mention about one interesting “monument” which is at the entrance of Myounji Temple. The tombstone is shaped like a sake bottle. Interesting story.
Best I quote Tae Moriyama I mentioned in Part 1.
“As the legend goes, Yosuke, a laborer, consumed only alcohol for sustenance throughout his whole life. He was such a heavy drinker that after his death his body released the smell of sake for a considerable length of time. As he was not permitted a burial in the precincts of the sanctuary itself, the local people took pity on him and interred his remains along the approachway to the temple…I know of no other such humorous gravestone anywhere else in the country”.
Reluctantly I leave the grounds of Myounji and continue north along the Hoki River. A very pleasant promenade.
On the way I found one more dysfunctional onsen, Momiji-no Yu. Sad. It probably was one of those open air public one-coin baths available all-around Japan.
I sat nearby for a while as if commemorating the deceased. But got curious and Googled the place. It was still working in 2023!
Pity. In Japan many hotel guests just hang out in their rooms waiting for dinner/breakfast, alternating room and in-house hot spring, sometimes throwing in an occasional trip to convenience store or taking pictures nearby. At least those “wild” onsen sites were some kind of motivation to move and explore the places, but they are decreasing as I could see in Shiobara and in many other areas of Japan.
I am walking further now entering Kamishiobara - the Upper Shiobara.
Nice looking ryokan on the other side. It is called Akazawa.
Had a chat with a duty manager who seeing my tired look (walking from the very morning) took a pity and offered me some coffee. If you have a dog, this is the place to stay, pooches are allowed. Price varies, but on the average AUD 150 per night (for two, dog counted).
A bit further north, there is another ryokan made of separate cottages called Kanon. So, plenty of accommodation and I guess the supply exceeds the demand.
I wrapped up my long walk at Hakonomori Play Park above the river.
I recommend staying at Shiobara onsen for at least two full days walking, bathing, eating. Or simply relaxing near the river with a book.
It is peaceful here.
Another place to keep on the to go list. Thanks Igor.