Walking Taipei. May 2024. Part 3. Tianmu and night markets.
Expat enclave and night market hopping.
Part 1 is here. Part 2 is here. Part 4 is here.
Each Asian capital or a big city usually would have a “foreigner enclave”, this is where most embassies and international schools are located, expats tend to reside and play - an odd brick in otherwise conformist wall. For example, in Tokyo it will be Minato Ward (Aoyama, Azabu, Roppongi etc.), Ploenchit in Bangkok and Hannam in Seoul. Occasionally I like to visit those areas for a food or a slightly different air from already familiar environment.
In Taipei one such area is Tianmu (天母). It is home to Taipei American School, Japanese School and Taipei European school, the first two schools actually established on the sites of former US military facilities. Interestingly Taiwan had a large presence of US troops until 1979 when US terminated diplomatic ties with ROC (to establish such with PRC). Organization which was tasked to protect Taiwan was called the United States Taiwan Defense Command (USTDC) which was operational from 1954 to 1979. Also, at the peak of Vietnam War in 1968-1969 Taiwan was used as a base for US troops, with the highest number stationed at that time nearing 30,000. These days there are only a few, deployed on outlying islands.
I arrived to Zhishan MRT station and walked towards Tianmu Square via Zhongshan Road (Section 6). Immediately I felt strong difference from “normal” Taipei - less motorbikes, more cafes, greener - my exploring appetite on the rise. In fact, roads in Tianmu follow the Western style of urban planning.
Having got a sense of the main thoroughfare, I turned left towards Huangxi river or rather a creek. At some sections it runs parallel to Zhongshan Road, so it makes a good alternative path for the locals wanting to commute closer to the nature.
On the way I pass Diplomatic Quarter. Well, this is the name of the building giving the shelter to most of the foreign embassies in Taipei. Good choice of the location! Concur.
I turn right towards main road again as the river veered sharp in the opposite direction. Feeling a bit hungry.
“They would not have Taiwanese pancakes here”, I’m talking to myself. Hoping I’m wrong. And AM I!
A tiny outlet of happiness. The whole one is very big and costs 100 NTD, so I am ordering a half. Hot, fragrant, crunchy - a marvel.
Facing Tianmu Square is imposing Sanyu Taoist temple. Tradition and modernization side by side…
Next, I am passing another iconic building, George Shoes flagship store. The company has nearly 70 years of history and stocks both, imported and locally made shoes. I had a look inside, a lot of good choices actually if you are in the need.
A tribute to expat/foreign vibe of the area is Mother of God Church built in 1960 and reminding of its existence every morning at 8 am by ringing a bell.
Close by is the Miraculous Medal, the replica of the medal featuring supernatural appearance of Mary, mother of Jesus. As they say.
From religion I move to the nature again. Tianmu Park is very close and has plenty of banyan trees, one large green tribe of Taipei.
Tianmu Park is connected with much smaller Tonde Park via a small bridge over (already familiar) Huangxi Creek.
It starts raining when I return back to Tianmu Park, so I find a shelter and open my Kindle. A bit of a RRT (rest and read time).
Actually, when I looked at the map and signs around, I found that there were many walking trails in the vicinity.
I return back to the station passing by the international schools. The classes finished and it was interesting to witness multinational flock of agitated kids in “school is over today” mood laughing and chatting their way through the streets.
Ideas what else to see here during next come back.
- Walk all the way along Huangxi Creek towards bigger Shuangxi River
- Junjinyang and Tianmu Historic trails
HOTEL AND NIGHT MARKETS.
As usual when I embark on a series of posts about one location I share my ideas about the best places to sleep. In Part two I talked about staying in Tamsui in a hotel facing Taiwan Strait as my preference. But if I have to sleep in Taipei it will be The Landis Taipei Hotel. It checks most of my critical boxes. Good gym with variety of weights and cardio equipment.
Sauna to train yourself to outside heat.
If you opt for outdoor exercise or a drink, there is a rooftop area.
Also the airport bus stops in front of the hotel. The other good options are in more upmarket Daan district. Howard Plaza, Ambassador and Fullon Central are also decent places to hit the pillow.
Sleeping solved. Now to food again which always coils through my narratives. Can’t help it. Night markets of Taipei. Often even if I am not hungry, I would just go there and wander around to absorb the energy, the smells and the calmness of the chaos. In part one I already talked about Raohe Night Market. In fact, if you are in Taipei and ask your smart phone about the nearest night market you will easily find a few within 30 minutes of your location - walk, train or bus. So, probably it is easier to recommend which market not to go to. To me it will be Shilin Night Market, the largest, often injected with busloads of “eat and shop paratroopers”. If you Google Shilin, you will often come across the description as “famous”. To me equals “a place to avoid”.
Without attempting to create a night market guide I will suggest a couple in this post, as those are just fresh impressions.
Linjiang Street (or Tonghua) Night Market). It is in central Taipei (101 Tower is 30 min. or so walking distance), 10 minutes on foot from Xinyi Anhe MRT station. Good place to end your day if you were wondering around the city center and Daan Park.
My favorite dish here which I could not see anywhere else - sorry again if I mention this name in too many a Taiwan posts - stinky tofu in a broth with a cabbage. Had it a few evenings in a row…
Shuangcheng Street Night Market. It is close to Landis Taipei (MRT Shuanglian will be the closest probably). Very small and very local.
If you want something more sizeable and a variety, you can do night market hopping by patrolling through nearby Ningxia and Dalong Street markets.
Not night market, but there is a very trendy promenade or as they call it here “linear park” between Zhongshan and Shuanglian MRT stations. The area is dotted with creative studios, boutique or trying to look so shops and cafes.
The promenade ends near the colorful Wenchang Temple.
I will conclude this series of Taiwan posts with my next story depicting Jinbaoli Trail in the mountains.
(finale to follow)
Great info and pics!
It all looked a bit unfamiliar to me until I looked closely at the Landis rooftop photo and saw in the distance that large red building in the vernacular style of architecture (a hotel I think?), then I knew where you were !