Walking Taipei. May 2025. Part 2. Tamsui. Tamsui/Bali to Luzhou.
My "base" in Taiwan -Tamsui. A home away from Home.
Part 1 is here. Part 3 is here. Part 4 is here.
Tamsui is one of the Districts of New Taipei City. I believe before the formation of NTC in 2010, it was a township.
District or town, this is the area where I stayed most in Taiwan. It is small enough not to exhaust you (around 180,000 people), here Tamsui River flows into Taiwan Strait and you can enjoy sea view boulevards, large fresh produce market (including night food stalls), hot spring town Beito is nearby, as well as Yamingshan National Park. For history lovers there are some remnants of Portuguese and Spanish outposts of 17th century (Forto Domingo). So, to me it is not a place “to do” things, but a place to stay, a base.
Even when I had work and meetings in Central Taipei, I often stayed one hour away in Tamsui. Why?
Judge for yourself. You can’t have such a view in any of Taipei hotels. Fullon Hotel Fisherman’s Wharf is a great place to stay. It was not so upmarket, say, 15 years ago. When bookings were scarce, I remember receiving room upgrades to suites with balcony jacuzzi, etc. Now, thanks to Instagram and other SNS warriors, it is too well known…
Arriving to Tamsui station from Taipei by the train, I have always enjoyed 30 or so minutes’ walk to hotel.
And sunsets.
A walk. Tamsui market-Tamkang Uni campus-Bali-Luzhou station.
As I said, Tamsui is only a base. From here go mountain hiking or bath at Beitou hot springs or visit Taipei. Choices a plenty. During this May trip I came here from Taipei feeling nostalgic about some places to revisit them and to walk a new route. So, first I headed to Tamsui market to have something to eat. I was early enough there at 8 am after 40 minutes’ train ride from Taipei.
Market is busy already.
My attention is on a stall making some kind of rice buns with pickles and egg inside. I tried them before but never could remember the name. But I definitely enjoyed the unusual taste.
Tamsui is a hilly town. After my rice “bun” (?) I went up towards Tamkang University campus. Nothing special, but I just wanted to once again walk through the campus nice gardens.
Vast boulevards.
Next, I am walking tothe ferry terminal towards Bali, another New Taipei district just across the river.
I stroll along Tamsui River promenade a bit to kill time. Like it here.
The ride is only around 10 minutes as the river is not very wide here.
I am starting to move south along the left bank of the river. Let’s begin!
Tamsui gets very crowded on weekends, but I felt that it would be much quieter here in Bali. Probably. Also was mentally comparing this walk to Hang River in Seoul. Well, there it feels more “modern”, there is more related infrastructure, ords of cyclists. Here it is more homespun. On another geographic comparison, these villas reminded me of Coloane (Lou Wan) area in Macau.
Little parks, palms, peaceful…
On my total walk I spotted only three cafes, all of which were closed. Luckily, I had some nuts and fruits with me as usual.
Sad boats at rest waiting for a high tide…
On the way I have encountered a few groups of energetic retiree-walkers. Interestingly, around 90% in those groups were women. What are their men doing if at all? Coach surfing, raising glasses?
After walking along the mangroves, I am approaching Guangdu Bridge and Longxin Pier.
The river seems to be wider here and the place is definitely popular with eager fishermen.
My original plan was to walk around 20 km to Taipei Bridge and take train home from there. Unfortunately, there was a construction around Guanyinjkeng canal a few km after Guangdu area, so I had to reduce the distance and take the bus to Luzhou station.
Nevertheless, it was a good walk, especially combined with the morning market and a ferry ride.
I am sure there are many nice and better places in Taiwan, but I do like to return to my “bases” in different countries, as it always feels like a small home. Away from Home.