Hong Kong trails. Long Ke to Pak Tam Au. Nov. 2023
“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” - Lao Tzu
The distances of a well-known hiking trails in HK are easy to remember. Hong Kong trail, which goes from Victoria Peak to Sai Kung district, for example, is 50 km.
And Maclehose “walk” is 100 km. These two I want to do in full. And I have started, bit by bit, year by year.
During these years I can’t stop being surprised at how unlikely Hong Kong first seemed to be a hiking destination for me. Then, after the years, the mind progressing to the clear desire of staying here a few months and “see it all”. On a more general note, twenty years ago HK to me was a “nice place to enjoy Cantonese food” with an added bonus of marveling at the views of Victoria Harbour from the Star Ferry. Now it is a place which “has it all”: great food (low key and high end), superb coffee and craft beers, spectacular walks and secluded islands, top notch shopping etc. Surely, recent political changes did affect the social and cultural landscape here, but since I’m only a visitor I am trying to ignore these new realities. In any case, Hong Kong is popular. Around 34 mil. tourists visited the region in 2023 (Japan, for comparison, welcomed 20 mil. arrivals last year).
Back to hiking. Many trails are pretty well documented.
Good site about the hikes in HK is here.
At the end of the last year, I did a few good walks in HK. I really enjoyed them, and when writing this only two months later, I already miss the place and don’t mind repeating the route featured in this blog.
Today’s post is about the hike from High Island Reservoir East Dam in Sai Kung East Country Park to Pak Tam Au in Central Sai Kung. The hike covers the end of Section 1 of Maclehose trail and the full length of the Section 2.
I started my trip at Diamond Hill station, exit C2, from here taking bus 92 to Sai Kung. The bus has two levels, so I climbed to the top and started to drink the views.
If I live in HK, I will choose Sai Kung town (pop. 15,000). Ferries to remote islands, al fresco eating, hiking routes, a very laid-back atmosphere compared to the super busy central areas.
Could definitely enjoy more here, but I have a long hike ahead. From Sai Kung I take taxi to East Dam (30 min., 135 HKD). Another way is to take bus 94 to the beginning of Section 1 of Maclehose trail and start there. It will add 2 hours to the hike, but section 1 is pretty easy and flat. I walked that Section in 2013.
The driver looks back.
“Here you are!”.
Now I am on my own. The direction is clear, the sky is blue, and I gladly succumb to the familiar feeling of a good day ahead.
Near the Dam I pass the formation of hexagonal, apparently volcanic, rock columns. They are said to have been formed 140 mln. years ago. This is a beautiful view for sure.
Where to next? Signs point to Long Ke. From the Dam it is around 45 min walk, up and down.
Many locals rate Long Ke as the best beach in HK. You can only get here by foot or by chartered boat. This already adds to the beauty.
The trail to the beach is through the hills, but not very steep.
En route I pass the sign marking the end of Section 1 of Maclehose trail and the beginning of the Section 2.
Now I’m near the beach. Definitely if you have to reach it by the combination of taxi and foot, there would not be many people!
Of course, I went for a swim.
Refreshed I am moving towards Sai Wan Shan hill (314m) after which I will descend to Sai Wan beach.
Not everywhere were steps though.
Finally, I’m at the top!
From here I can see four bays and namesake beaches (picture below, left to right): Sai Wan, Ham Ti Wan, Tai Wan and Tung Wan. As you can easily guess, “wan” means “bay” in Cantonese (same in Japanese). It took me around 1 hour from Long Ke to Sai Wan Shan. The area is also known as Tai Long Wan - the Maldives of Hong Kong.
I start walking down towards Sai Wan beach.
On the way my attention is drawn to the commanding view of Nam She Tsim (Sharp Peak) ahead It is a challenging steep hike of 468 m.
Another interesting view. The edge of the small peninsula below reminds me the claws of a dinosaur.
On the way I finally see one “local”.
There are about 1300 stray cows in Hong Kong due to the decline of the local agricultural sector. They are said to be peaceful, but I felt uneasy under the investigating bovine stare.
Soon I’m entering Sai Wan village.
People chilling at cafe- bar “Oriental”. I wonder how they got here. There is probably a small road, but I could not see any on the map. But what I know is that you can book a boat back to Sai Kung from here. Could be a good itinerary, walking Long Ke and Sai Wan, relax at “Orintal” and back to Sai Kung! One day… I love those rustic, right on the beach drink holes anywhere in the world. Too dangerous to stop, so I continue moving.
Sai Wan beach is cozy and not too big.
From here I climb another small hill offering views of adjacent Ham Ti Wan. It is around one hour walk from Sai Wan to Ham Ti Wan.
This is really one Hong Kong Riviera, or Maldives, but without tourist infrastructure and crowds. I hope it will stay like this. To me it is much better than Nice.
I’m off to the last leg of the hike towards Pak Tam Au. This part is mostly flat and easy.
On the way I pass Chek Keng. Here near the pier, you can see a large orange building. At first, I thought it was some private residence, but when I checked on the map the place turned out to be Bradbery Hall Youth Hostel. What a great location!
From here you can take a ferry to Wong Shek, another beautiful part of New Territories in Hong Kong.
Chek Keng is a small village, and it looked abandoned.
Somehow, I liked the area and made a brief stop there enjoying whispering of the water.
Another hour on a flat path and I’m near the bus stop. From here you can take infrequent bus 94 or call for a taxi.
Back near the hotel I buy a baguette and a couple of salads from an excellent food chain Pret A Manger (again, wish we could have similar in Japan). It was a good long day, full of the colors of the nature!
I am a bit tired. But tired happily, physically. My journey will go on!
That's a great account of a great hike. As you rightly say, such trails and countryside in a place like Hong Kong constantly amaze. I have dome the Maclehose Trail several times in part and also in its entirety while taking part in Oxfam Trailwalker. Our best time was 24.5 hours from Sai Kung to Tuen Mun - happy days !