Life Digest. November 2024.
Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, trains, walks, food...
A belated self-guilty attempt to start journalling of my life whilst trying to avoid genre specific egotism and making it a practical guide for the readers.
JAPAN. LIFE.
Prices going up, looks like we are having a new prime minister, and yen is getting weaker again.
Stats. Japan ranked a record low 92nd in the 2024 English proficiency ranking of 116 countries and regions where English is not the native language. This is the result of the annual survey by a Japanese subsidiary of a Swiss international education company EF (Education First). In the other field, the digital competitiveness, Japan stood 31st, well below Singapore, Korea, Taiwan and China. To be fair, we are the second-best country in the world for living standards after Switzerland (according to a study by U.S. News & World Report). All these stats are of course subjective, but the trends I believe are correct. Many things are still done on paper in Japan (or fax!), and the majority of young people are not curious about the outside world, hence no motivation for English study. But the life in Japan is safe, cozy and comfortable enough (weather cataclysms and earthquakes aside).
USS George Washington (CVN-73), a nuclear-powered aircraft carrier, returned to Yokosuka. Initially stationed here from 2008 to 2015 it underwent major overhaul and modernization I mentioned in my earlier Yokosuka article. Planning to go soon to have a look, even from a distance. Mighty weapon of not so mighty and united country now.
I discovered a very picturesque area near Kanazawa-Bunko station in Kanagawa Prefecture. It is near Shomyoji Temple. You can take a train to KB or walk from Kanazawa-Hakkei station along the bay and through the parks (recommended).
Shomyoji Temple was built in 1258 and restored during Edo period (17-18th century).
Even on Sunday the area was not crowded at all. Make an effort and climb steep stairs behind the temple.
You will be rewarded with nice views of Sagami Bay.
Nearby starts another trail, Rokkokutoge. I will try next time. I returned to Kanazawa-Hakkei station walking along Miyakawa River.
Takeshiba to Tennozu Isle Walk. I had errands around Takeshiba Pier in Tokyo. Like a lot this part of Tokyo from where you can board ferry to Ogasawara Islands. Being near the pier always promises some travel. Right? Even smells of it.
The weather being perfect I decided to walk towards Tennozu Isle, a suburb of Tokyo near Shinagawa station with small canals and one cozy feel, kind of little Venice (fellow blogger from Italy corrected that it more resembles Copenhagen). The walk takes slightly over an hour. You can change the route mid-way and walk along the Rainbow Bridge to Odaiba.
I like more Tennozu Isle though (than Odaiba). Pictures below.
Cafes, water views, wooden decks, outdoor gym - an urban oasis. If you are in Tokyo as a tourist, and tired after temples, “must sees” and concrete jungle walks (you should not do them in the first place), come here to end your day. Plenty of accommodation nearby also.
SOUTHEAST ASIA. EASTERN AND ORIENTAL EXPRESS.
I like trains. But I never tried luxury train travel. Three nights “Essence of Malaysia” trip took me from Singapore to Malaysia (and back), with stops and excursions around Georgetown, Langkawi Island and Ipoh town. I have been in all these places before (except for Ipoh), but the best bit for me was staying in the observation deck car, watching the jungle, eating fine, and sleeping sound (always liked sleeping on the trains since childhood, a very natural cradle). Later it transformed to sleeping well on the ships (being in the Navy). I slept well despite any possible ship movements - swaying, surging or heaving - all-natural cradle to a young man, not so for many sailors affected by seasickness allowing me to enjoy their round of meals at the nearly empty canteen during the storms.
A post on E&O Express to follow.
E&O Express
SINGAPORE. LIFE.
Locals complain more about price rises, mostly on property and car ownership. I agree. A one room apartment near Robertson Quay will cost you over 2 mln. SGD.
Renting similar place will be around 3,000 SGD a month. I definitely can find better place for this money in Sydney. And with an ocean view, not the yellow flow of Singapore River. Reasons? Wrote before.
I attempted a part of a new hike C2C (Coast to Coast), liked it a lot. Always amazed at how the local government consistently developing this urban cocoon into an active life place. I will describe this route in a separate post.
A hike across Singapore. Good one.
GOOD READS
I always liked Shanghai. So, probably will read. “Gangsters of Shanghai” preview.
Chris is my favorite travel blogger. And mega-walker. From him on Japan or anything else is always a reading treat. Walking Japan.
You can become a resident (not citizen) of Switzerland for a mere 289,000 euro. I don’t think it is that simple, but apparently money can buy you a new home around the world these days.
Still going through the memoirs of the late Navalny and the life of Lawrence of Arabia. I enjoy the flow of the thought of Navalny, and not so easy narration of M.Korda about the equally strong character. The links I provided in this post are videos.
GOOD WATCH
Simply GOOD movie. To Leslie.
GOOD BITES AND SWIGS. SINGAPORE.
In November I spent 10 days between Singapore and Malaysia. I repeat my earlier posts, but my liking of Carrotsticks cafe on Robertson Quay in Singapore remains unchanged.
Changi Village Hawker Centre. (Block 2/3 Changi Village Road). Singapore has a lot of hawker centers with multiple stalls selling different foods. Well, this one is like Hawker Food Supermarket. Nearly everything with dozens of stalls. There is a system in lines how the stalls are arranged, Indian Muslim food, Indian traditional food, Teochew, etc. Worth a visit for sure. Not easy by metro, but the Grab is always here (unlike in no-hailing service Japan, always comparing…and complaining…).
I love congee when it is good and unique. This place in Tiong Bahru (my earlier post on the area) is great. Old Shifu Charcoal Porridge. Each dish is below 10 SGD. I had chicken and century egg congee with “lady fingers” (okra) in sambal sauce. They also make a very good “Teh C kosong” (black tea with evaporated milk, no sugar). I moved away from my beloved “teh tarik” as it had too much sugar. I am yet to research how my new SE Asia favorite “teh C kosong” differs from HK “lai cha without sugar”. At this stage I know that in HK they are using a stronger tea and I feel it, hence agree with a reading.
Great congee place in a great suburb
EXERCISE AND HEALTH
It is not something we have not heard before, but I like it as a good summary. 5 stoic and zen principles.
My second time to be in hospital in Japan. Had severe allergy attack. The lesson learnt - I never want to be in any hospital. The room is spacious, divided into 4 chambers by thin partitions. You don’t see other patients, but, my god, you do hear them. The worst for me, a very outdoorsy person, was that all windows were covered with shutters, even in the morning, and “legal” AC temperature inside the “cell” had to be 26 Celsius (to be fair when they run heating function in winter it must be 20, tweaked logic). I believe this is against all possible guidelines specifying sleep temperature at 20 degrees Celsius or even less. Of course, no windows could be opened. Only this factor can you make you even more sick…
Managed to “get pardoned” the next morning but started to look more seriously after my health. Just to be able to breathe fresh air when I want to.
My bunk, hospital breakfast and evidence of unhealthy temperature control
Hope you are better now!
Sorry to hear of your recent troubles, hope you are fully recovered now. The luxury train trip sounds great though like you I have never taken one before. I did the less-luxurious version from Bangkok to Singapore a while back and that was a wonderful adventure - cheers !