Train travels in Asia. Eastern and Oriental Express. November 2024.
Dreams having come true will lead to more dreams. Be ready. And happy.
Preface. A bit of nostalgic history.
I like train travel. Done a lot with my father as a kid visiting grandparents on overnight trains in Belarus where I was born. Those were mostly basic trains where you had to unfold the upper bunk before the night comes in and decide who is going to sleep “on the 2nd floor”. The cheapest option was a car without partitions between the compartments, so when you go to the toilet you could see (and smell) all the sorts of socks with holes and not. Those carriages called “plalzcart” offered no privacy and were noisy.
Better option was a so-called “coupe” car where 4 people shared one compartment with two bunks set up and two set down. And the best were the sleeping cars (first class) boasting a “room” for two, sometimes a washing sink, but toilets were mostly outside. The last two came with a “service” where your bed was made by a conductor and on some routes, you were offered free hot tea and snacks. Restaurant cars were also available offering often mediocre food in my times, but depending on the route, even worse service, but usually plenty of vodka and never enough stock of beers. If vodka “finished”, the waiters could “get it only for you” for a double price, whereas it was the same vodka from the restaurant stock.
USSR…One of the reasons I always wanted out.
You could also buy “pirozhki” and other homemade treats from “babushkas” (“old lady” in Russian) dutifully lining up along the platforms during the train stops, so that the passengers could indulge in some local delicacies. Some were very delicious.
When I moved to Australia nearly 30 years ago, I found out that it was a “car country”. People mostly drive here, and the inter-city train network is not developed well. There is although a luxury offer of The Ghan train running 3,000 km through the continent.
Japan where I live now offered a pleasant surprise. Cozy little trains in the rural areas, clean and comfortable, this is on top of speedy Shinkansen trains. I experienced many rural small railways (Aomori, Sanriku, Hachinohe, etc.) and travelled for work from Tokyo to Matsue by overnight train a few times. Unlike Australia or US, Japan is definitely a train country. And I like it. When it is no scenery, tunnels for example, I do my work or reading or writing. Otherwise I gaze. Seems to be a key word for this post. Gazing…
So, the train travel is definitely on my list. Many years ago, I read about luxury trains crossing the countries at a leisurely pace. I decided I should do it one day. Being not much into Europe or Americas, it had to be Asia in my case. Well, I already live in Asia.
The E&O Express. Outside.
So, this year our company in Japan won a government tender. Consequently, armed with a modest bonus and fully in agreement with a concept of “Die with Zero” I have booked Eastern and Oriental Express (E&OE for short). Normally I like to travel/walk/hike alone - to focus, to challenge myself, to recharge, to mentally summarize what I am doing, and sometimes to get lost blaming only myself for that mishap. Not such a situation obviously with a slow train travel. So, Yuko, my girlfriend, happily joined me in Singapore to share a trip which felt like a dream, and sometimes we think it was. “No, we have not been there. It was a variation of a slumber”.
Facts. The train is made of 15 cars. Two restaurants, two bars, one observation car with open deck (our favorite place), two staff carriages and 8 sleepers of different classes. Even the “cheapest” class I booked (Pullman cabin) had a toilet and a shower. The route is basically the same as you would go to Butterworth from Kuala-Lumpur on a normal train, but with small deviations and stops. So, it is Singapore – Johor Bahru (train stops to make stamps in passport confirming that you have crossed into Malaysia), then all the way towards Ipoh (short city tour around the station), Arau (where people who want can disembark and take a boat to Langkawi for 3-4 hours – free excursion), then Butterworth, ferry to Georgetown, a bit of sightseeing and back. Totally you spend on a train a little bit more than three days and three full nights. The speed is slow 60-100 kph (normal passenger trains from Kuala-Lumpur to Penang run close to 200 kph) and atmosphere is relaxing. Train often stops to give way to “regular” runners. The cost differs upon the season and the route, but as a ballpark from USD 4,500 per cabin for the whole trip. Singapore -Bangkok coming soon.
I don’t know why I packed my Kindle. Never opened. Train travel is about gazing for me. With or without thoughts. Gazing at?
Mosques.
Jungle.
Lakes.
Stations.
Hills and mountains.
We spent most of the time in the observation car, it does not have windows, so you can enjoy unobstructed views and smell the jungle.
The only problem was that the smokers are allowed to execute their suicidal mission in the observation car, and other people had to choose whether to stay or brave the stink. Mostly for this reason I cannot recommend the trip if you plan to spend a lot of time on the open deck, although views from the cabin are equally good, but to me the view through the cabin window felt like a TV show, not so “real” compared to when I gazed my time off inside the observation car.
The E&O Express. Inside.
Each car has a steward which looks after your needs and prepare beds for the night.
Next to the observation car there is a small bar. A bar does not always mean alcohol here. We had many coffees, teas and FRESH juices here.
And next to the restaurants there is a Piano Bar. A pro singer performed at some nights.
One night we had a karaoke party in Piano Bar. Stayed a bit, representing Japan.
Unless you want alcohol from the vast menu, fresh juices, coffee or champagne are all free (included in the original booking).
We enjoyed a lot of freshly squeezed mango and guava juices. Champaigne on the first day for sure.
Whereas observation car was close to us, both restaurants were on the opposite side of the train.
Here is the “walk”. For your breakfast, lunch and dinner… Well, we need to move.
Which brings us to the food.
Food.
I used to enjoy wines when living in Sydney, in Japan somehow the habit has died, but gladly experimented with exquisite wines we were offered at dinners aboard E&OE.
Here is one dinner menu by Andre Chiang. His style is Sichuan and French fusion, with a little bow to other Asian cuisines. I guess.
Some food examples.
And a setting.
Well, dress code applies.
Whilst for the three days (except for a swim at Langkawi Island) I could not continue my daily exercise routine, strangely enough I did not feel that I am overeating or lacking exercise. I was asking myself why. Probably a well-balanced food, enjoyment of a non-intrusive and humorous service, good wines, spending a lot of time on the open deck and moving between the cars, not much talking, and…. gazing.
Outings.
As I have mentioned, the trip involved some excursions. We had a stop at Arau, the capital of Malaysian state of Perlis (Malaysia has 13 states and 3 federal territories, all VERY different in how they operate, but not for this post…) from where a few mini vans took us to the boats departing for Langkawi. I visited Langkawi before, but this was some kind of a secluded beach, I did make a note but still cannot find the name.
Short yoga class, even shorter massage, swim, some snacks. I feedbacked to the train manager to make this kind of excursion longer, as it felt squeezed in time. Before returning to the train, we circled a bit around mangroves. Much more sophisticated mangroves compared to Okinawan ones, for sure! Plenty of eagles also hovering above.
In Penang (Georgetown) the train company organized different options for outing: cooking classes, trishaw rides around the town or Vespas with a guide. I know Georgetown well enough, so I asked our trishaw “driver” to rest while we had a walk in the middle of the town and enjoyed some thosai - South Indian bread made with fermented rice batter (recently prefer them over roti, healthier…).
Another short excursion was around Ipoh (capital of Perak state) train station. Probably an hour or so. We were given some info, then a free time. Ipoh does continue traditions of Georgetown in street wall arts.
Actually, I always wanted to visit Ipoh, want to come for a few days another time.
So, as a summary. I have a friend who is 20 years younger than me, has a good job and in a good health. He wants to do many travels, but he says some destinations are very expensive, and he has not fulfilled yet what he planned for himself even 10 years ago.
My advice was. “In 20 years, you might not be as healthy, but if you continue your job, you will have enough of money which you wish you had spent before. Go now. But be careful. A dream which came true will lead to another. Drive your dreams carefully but never ignore”.
He has just come back from a trip around Europe, and he has been promoted. Which will lead to more trips or dreams, or both.
Dream came true will lead you to another dreams. This is Life, taken positively.
I don't know if I'll ever do your train trip, but I thoroughly enjoyed your story.
This is something I must definitely do one day. And no point waiting and putting it off, just like you say. So will start making plans.