Walking Seoul. Mapo area: Sangsu station in Saegang -> Mangwon->Hapjeong.
The height of intelligence
I am in Seoul again. Last year I posted about some hike routes and now continue to discover new districts. Every visit something new strikes my receptors. The youth is very energetic here, and most elderly look relaxed. I quote Americal novelist Alice Walker here: “In South Korea, they believe that when you turn 60, you've become a baby again and the rest of your life should be totally about joy and happiness, and people should leave you alone, and I just think that that's the height of intelligence”. I like it too.
Back to the receptors. The air feels more polluted compared to the last trip, Korean people are more emotional and loud compared to Japanese, neck down to mobile devices prevail everywhere, and the food is still delicious if not getting better.
Regarding being loud. Feels like many people when riding a bike or jogging want to make a statement for some reason by playing music loud. At the same time when on the morning train I counted that more than half people, mostly young, were sporting ear buds. It is probably a common trend, but I see less of it in Japan. May be because it is normal in Korea to discuss work and private matters on the phone when riding a train, so people are trying to block outside noise. What is totally surprising is people carrying their iPhones inside sauna, vigorously scrolling through the sweaty screens. I have not seen much of it before but looks like it is becoming a new “fashion”. One guy even attempted to play music but changed his mind after I have pointed to No Phones sign to him. Obviously, there are rules, but largely ignored.
Seoul is a home to around 9.7 mln. people (much more in Greater Seoul Capital area where 50% of the total country population live, that is around 25 mln.). The city is divided into 25 gu, the name of local administrative districts. It feels like the city is in a good hands being managed nicely. With intelligence.
On my last trip I picked up a guide on Mapo-gu in one of the city information kiosks. I still like printed guides and maps. The Mapo guide is not systematic enough, but still describes the most interesting spots in the area with maps as an attachment at the end (maps are not accurate, but good for direction).
So, the guide travelled with me in the backpack all the way from Japan back to its home in Korea. I marked interesting places while on a plane.
I started exploring the area from Sangsu subway station (line 6) and walked towards Sangsu Café Street which is vividly described in the guide.
Finding the street was a bit hard, so I have used café Yri as a landmark to navigate through Google Maps.
The street feels less glamorous compared to Garosu-gil district, no high risers, occasional trash, but definitely a lot of young people in the area (Hongik University is nearby) create equally youthful vibe.
Since it was already after noon and Yri had outdoor seating, I felt like a breakfast.
Classic Italian sandwich was not bad with salami and rocket leaves drenched with olive oil.
I then decided to forget the map since the scale was not very accurate and started what I call “freefall roaming”.
They like colored pavements here for sure. Red Road below.
And not only red
Interesting eatery with outdoor tables right on the sun. Hmm, but I am full already.
The atmosphere in the area was really relaxed, a lot of laughter in the air, fusion food outlets a plenty, sunny and cozy. By the way, Hang River Park is not far, around 10 minutes’ walk to the promenades near Seoul Power station.
I wandered a bit around then went up the streets towards a large road. Soon I hit a street which definitely looked like a way leading to some kind of market.
I walked straight and voila, right in front of me is the entrance to Mangwon Market.
If felt more local compared to Gwanjang market near Dongdaemun station which I visited last year.
Vegetables, fruits, fish, meat, kitchen utensils, shoes, socks…- super eclectic. In a way I have enjoyed this organized chaos.
Not really hungry, but I see the sign advertising Korean sausage (sundae) stew and cannot resist. To make sundae, pig intestine is normally staffed with pork blood, glass noodles, bean sprouts and Napa cabbage. Something not what I would eat often, but curiousity won.
Since I am on a food path again, I need to mention a great porridge shop near exit 10 of Dongdaemun station. Before my work meeting the day before I enjoyed great breakfast here with kimchi octopus porridge (left) paired with a side dish of nabak kimchi (right).
This nabak kimchi (water kimchi) reminded me Russian style pickled cabbage my mother used to make. I asked for two refills… Actually, the shop belongs to the national chain and is called Seoul ma-nim Juk ( 서울마님 죽). I really need to learn basic Hangul, as it is only 24 letters…
One more food note is about lavish diner with a Hang River view. It is called 초대 한정식 (Chodae Hanjeongsik) . Outdoor and indoor seating.
Takes around 20-30 min from Seoul by car into Gaeyonggi-do province. I had a business dinner there, but really would not mind coming again (need at least 2 people). No pictures here, as small dishes were flowing one after another, and I was too busy consuming them and pretending to follow business conversation. One of the best high-end meals I ever had.
I have plenty of books and guides about Seoul. Will be back!
When you say that Koreans are louder and more emotional than people in Japan, agreed. That was my biggest culture shock when I backpacked South Korea after living in Japan for a year.